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Shepard's Pygmy Angel

Shepard's Pygmy Angelfish, Mango Angelfish

Family: PomacanthidaeCentropyge shepardiPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Frank Schneidewind

The Shepard's Pygmy Angel is a pleasure to look at and to keep!

The brightly colored Shepard's Pygmy Angelfish Centropyge shepardi is similar in appearance to the Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus , but with a more orange coloration. Hence the name Mango Angelfish. Like the Coral Beauty it too stands out as and excellent addition to the home aquarium. Its an attractive fish that is generally hardy and a willing eater. It is also one of the less aggressive angelfish, making it an addition that is more likely to behave itself in your tank.

The Shepard's Dwarf Angel is a more recent discovery, described in 1979. They are found in the Western Pacific from Mariana and Ogasawara (Bonin) Islands, and occasionally off the Izu Islands south of Japan. These locations are very far and isolated from civilization, but support abundant populations of this species. They inhabit fore-reef slopes with rubble, sand, and live corals, as well as coral rich lagoons. They primarily feed on benthic algae and weeds growing on these rocky surrounding, and they like having lots of holes and crevices to dart in for refuge.

A unique characteristic of the Shepard's Angel is that it has been known to change sex on an "as needed" basis. All Centropyge are born as female, with the larger and more dominant fish becoming male as they mature. But with this pygmy angel there is evidence of sex reversal, where males can also revert back to female. They also hybridize with the Coral Beauty and the Flame Angel Centropyge loricula . The common name for these crosses is the False Shepard's Angelfish.

They do best in a saltwater aquarium with lots of rockwork. We have had little difficulty with the Shepard's Pygmy Angel. This fish eats readily and gets along with other fish in the same tank. They are easier to care for than other Dwarf Angelfish, and not as hard on corals. With their preference for algae, the likely hood of them going after corals may be low. Only if underfed would they need to eat from the zooxanthellae in the coral tissue, so keeping them well fed may make them one of the best angelfish for a reef.

The Shepard's Pygmy Angel seems to adapt to captivity better than most dwarf angelfish. They are more peaceful toward more docile tank mates when given the proper environment. The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish does okay in 55 gallons, but they can get aggressive it there are other competing algae eaters. Offer plenty of hiding spaces within the rock. Like most angelfish, they get along with tankmates best when they are only type of dwarf angelfish in the aquarium. However it can be housed with other species of dwarf Angelfish as long as they are all added at the same time. But be careful to only combine angelfish with very distinct color variations. Dwarf angelfish in general, under the right circumstances may spawn in captivity.

When choosing a Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish, look for a specimen that is alert and picking at rocks. Its body should be filled out, have no fin or body damage, and it should be brightly colored. A healthy specimen will also show an initial curiosity about who is approaching its tank, then quickly dart into hiding.

For more Information on keeping this fish see:
Guide to a Happy, Healthy Marine Aquarium

Geographic Distribution Centropyge shepardi Data provided by FishBase.org Scientific Classification Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Pomacanthidae

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Shepard's Pygmy Angelfish Centropyge shepardi was described rather recently by Randall & Yasuda in 1979. They are found in the Western Pacific, from the Mariana and Ogasawara (Bonin) Islands, and occasionally off the Izu Islands south of Japan. Possibly southwest of Palau. They inhabit depths from 33 to 184 feet (10 - 56 m).

These fish are found in exposed outer reef slopes and clear lagoon reefs over areas of mixed dead and living corals. Interestingly, they are found at a greater number than other species of Centropyge at depth of 50 feet (15 m). They will spawn with the Coral Beauty or Flame Angelfish if they cannot find their own species. The common name of these hybrids is the False Shepard's Angelfish.

Some common names fish is known by are Shepard's Pygmy Angel, Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish, Mango Angelfish, Shepard’s Angelfish, Shepard's Dwarf Angel, and Shepard's Dwarf Angelfish. The coloring is close to the inside of a mango, so this variation of a common name is probably the most descriptive. But it is more popularly called Shepard's Angelfish since it was named after its first collector, John. W. Shepard, of the Marine Laboratory of the University of Guam.

• Scientific Name: Centropyge shepardi
• Social Grouping: Harems - In the wild, they are usually found solitarily or in harems of one male with 2 to 7 females.
• IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - Stable population

Description

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish has an oval body and the shape the dorsal and anal fins are rounded to slightly pointed at the ends. It has a beautiful coloration. Its ranges in color with a head and body that are apricot to an almost red, with darkening toward the dorsal fin area. The common name Mango Angelfish is derived from this vibrant coloration.

On the sides there are irregular and thin broken vertical bars that are brown to black. They are confined only to the upper part of the body and can be absent in some specimens. On juveniles the bars are often undeveloped or very fine and get more defined as the fish grows to adulthood.

Attractive highlights include a dorsal fin trimmed in bright blue at the back outer edges (absent in females). The anal fin has more orange at the front area near the body and two to four bright blue spots on the back edge (less in females). Males also have streaks of bright blue on the dorsal and anal fins, as well as bright blue spots at the back edge of the dorsal fin.The tail fin is yellowish to brown.

This dwarf angel looks very similar to the Coral Beauty but differs in color and has anotomical features. The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish has 17 pectoral rays, a slightly rounded tail fin and lighter colored median fins. The Coral Beauty has a strongly rounded tail fin. The Shepard’s also lacks a color of blue over the head and median fins, and does not have the blue-edged orange-red spot at the pectoral base.

In the wild, the Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish will spawn with the Flame Angelfish and Coral Beauty. This is what accounts for some of the variation in this fish. In the hobby, these hybrids are called False Shepard's Angelfish.

• Maximum Size: 4.8 inches (12.19 cm)
• Lifespan: 5 years - Short lifespan for a dwarf angelfish, but their ease in care makes up for it. It is possible they do live longer, and quite logical that they should, but as of yet, 5 years is the longest documented time.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

These dwarf angel fish are easy to moderate to care for. They are good for a beginner to an intermediate aquarist as long as their algal food requirements are met. Although they are easier to care for than other dwarf angelfish, they need their nutritional needs met with plenty of algae crops on live rock. Putting a little area of rubble rock that algae can grow on will be appreciated.

In the wild their stomach contents are benthic algae and weeds. They may not be as inclined to go after corals, but their need for algae seems to be higher than for other dwarf angelfish, They also more readily adjust to taking prepared foods as they “learn” to feed with the other fish in the tank.

• Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy - Do best with algal foods naturally growing in the aquarium, and abundant.
• Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner - In a mature tank with plenty of algae, this will be a fish that a beginner can keep.

Foods and Feeding

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish is an omnivore, though tends a lot closer to being an herbivore. These dwarf angelfish are known to eat mostly algae in the wild. Their stomach contents are benthic algae and weeds, so a diet rich in vegetable matter is essential. The only "meaty" foods they ingest may be an occasional copepod who inhabits the algae they consume. They do best in a tank with a good supply of natural algae foods containing copepods and other small edibles, and diatom algae.

Shepard's Pygmy Angelfish Photo © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough

It is important that you feed angelfish all kinds of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. In a mature tank, ingesting copepods and other small proteins with the algae they scrape off the rock, could be sufficient. Yet is is still important to feed several times a day even if natural foods are present. Provide a good spirulina formula and offer a little meaty food, like adult artemia (good quality brine shrimp) and mysid shrimp. Watch and see which foods that you are offering are being eaten and change brands/type of foods as needed. There are several good commercial foods available including Formula II and Angel Formula.

They are said to be controllers of a number of green algae types. These include sea lettuces (green nori) Enteromorpha species (currently regarded as a synonym of  Ulva) and Ulva species; specifically Enteromorpha prolifera, Enteromorpha linza, Enteromorpha intestinalis, Enteromorpha compressa, Ulva rigida (Sea Lettuce), and Ulva lactuca. Others include the green hair algae Derbesia species, specifically Derbesia marina, Derbesia species 2, and Derbesia species 1. These also include the composite algae Boodlea species, and others such as Oscillatoria sp. 2, Oscillatoria sp. 1, Diatoms Stringy Growth, and Diatom Coating.

• Diet Type: Omnivore
• Flake Food: Yes - May or may not take in the beginning.
• Tablet Pellet: Yes - May or may not take in the beginning.
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet - Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, as well as other protein sources can be offered occasionally.
• Vegetable Food: Most of Diet - They need about 90% vegetable. May get most of their vegetable from algae growth present in tank.
• Meaty Food: Some of Diet - Can be obtained from copepods and other small crustaceans living in the algae being eaten.
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Depends on size of the tank and algae growth.

Aquarium Care

Water changes should be performed a little more often with this fish due to the need for them to have clean water conditions with lower nitrates. Typical is 30% a month, 20% every 2 weeks, or 5% a week, so judge accordingly to your tank size and water quality. Keep water at 8.0 PH and remember, the larger the tank, the better the quality and the less often water changes are needed.

• Water Changes: Bi-weekly - Monthly if tank is over 100 gallons.

Aquarium Setup

A mature tank that is minimum 55 gallons without other algae eating fish to compete with it, is ideal for its health. A tank that is 75 to 100 gallons, provides more food and cleaner water. Dwarf angels do not like dwarf-sized tanks, or nano tanks. Housing these fish in a smaller tank, like 30 gallons as some older publications state, is not advisable for nutritional and psychological reasons. Small tanks less than 55 gallons can result in territorial and aggressive behavior.

In general, smaller tanks have less natural foods for this constant grazer. The bio-load is also larger with this fish, which can cause the water to foul quickly. Like all dwarf angelfish, they like to have lots of rubble type areas to pick natural foods from and larger rock work to hide in to feel secure. It is best to introduce the Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish as the last inhabitant into a suitable, mature tank.

• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - 55 gallons or more is recommended. A larger aquarium can provide enough algae on live rock to sustain the dwarf angelfish through a natural diet, and keep it healthy. 55 gallons would need at least 80 lbs. of live rock. (1.5 to 2 lbs per gallon).
• Suitable for Nano Tank: No
• Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places - Being natural foods for predatory fish, they feel comfortable with lots of places to hide.
• Substrate Type: Any - They also do well with a "rubble" substrate which would facilitate a lot of coverage for algae to grow on.
• Lighting Needs: Any
• Temperature: 72.0 - 82.0° F (22.2 - 27.8° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77° F - At this temperature, hatching is 16 hours after spawning. Longer if water is cooler.
• Specific gravity: 1.023-1.026 SG
• Range ph: 8.0-8.4
• Brackish: No
• Water Movement: Any - They like some areas of strong and weak movement. Along the bottom while feeding, a weaker movement would be appreciated so they are not "blown away" while they eat.
• Water Region: Middle - Middle to Bottom.

Social Behaviors

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish is peaceful under the correct circumstances. Unlike other dwarfs, if given appropriate space, more peaceful fish should not be harassed, but monitoring is still suggested. However if housed in a smaller tank they will become aggressive as with all Centropyge. Competing with other algae eaters in a smaller tank is not advised since these dwarfs have an even greater need for algae than others. Of course a much larger tank would facilitate other algae eaters also, such as a tank with a longer footprint close to 6’.

As with all Centropyge, if housed in a smaller tank they will become aggressive. Keeping them as the only dwarf angelfish for best results. They do not get along with other dwarf angels unless the tank is well over 100 gallons and there are plenty of hiding places for both and plenty to eat. Making 2 separate "reefs" in a longer tank helps to "divide the line". However a male and female pair can work in a 75 to 100 gallon tank. Due to the foods found in stomachs of wild caught specimens, it seems coral consumption may not be an issue if well fed.

• Venomous: No
• Temperament: Peaceful - They can be peaceful as long as tank size is over 55 gallons and not over crowded or occupied with other algae eaters.
• Compatible with:
  • Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Male and female pairs in a tank that is at least 75 gallons. Two males in a tank over 100 gallons.
  • Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Safe - They can be peaceful as long as tank size is over 55 gallons and not over crowded or occupied with other algae eaters.
  • Semi-Aggressive: (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Safe
  • Aggressive: (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Monitor - As long as they cannot fit in the larger fish's mouth.
  • Large Semi-Aggressive: (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Monitor - As long as they cannot fit in the larger fish's mouth.
  • Large Aggressive, Predatory: (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Threat - In general, dwarf angelfish are at risk with large fish that can fit them into their mouths.
  • Slow Swimmers & Eaters: (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will out compete slow eaters, possibly leading to them starving to death.
  • Anemones: Monitor - May be safe if anemone has clownfish pair to protect it.
  • Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Safe
  • LPS corals: Monitor - Since the Shepard's Angelfish is largely a algae eater, they may or may not pick at the slime on the LPS. Most likely to ignore most corals, but you never know with individuals.
  • SPS corals: Monitor - Since the Shepard's Angelfish is largely a algae eater, they may or may not pick at the slime on the SPS. Most likely to ignore most corals, but you never know with individuals.
  • Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Monitor - Should not bother them, but the "polyps" can be enticing if the fish is not well fed.
  • Leather Corals: Safe
  • Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Monitor - May pick at appendages.
  • Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Monitor - May pick at appendages if not well fed.
  • Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Monitor - May pick at appendages if not well fed.
  • Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
  • Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Safe - ill not bother small shrimp and will ingest too few copepods to make an impact on their population.
  • Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Monitor - May pick at appendages.
  • Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat - May pick at the mantles of clams.
  • Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Monitor - May pick at appendages.
  • Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Safe - ill not bother small shrimp and will ingest too few copepods to make an impact on their population.

Sex: Sexual differences

Male is larger with blue patch behind their gill plates as well as blue edging and/or dots on the back of both the anal and dorsal fins. Obtaining a pair can be as easy as getting a large and small specimen. Monitor for aggression until one changes sex within a month or two. According to Dr. John E, Randall and Dr. Fujio Yasuda, the discoverers of this species, there is evidence of sex reversal in this fish.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish are broadcast spawners, releasing eggs and sperm simultaneously. The eggs will hatch in just under a day, then within 2 to 3 days they need microscopic algae for their very small mouths. Obviously, this is where raising any dwarf angelfish becomes difficult. These fish are not being bred in captivity at this time.

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish has spawned in captivity. This is based on an observation in 1992. Sadly the facility in which the experiment was being done was destroyed by a Typhoon, but some action was documented. The breeder captured one male with 4 females near Cocos Barrier reef, although it was stated that the 4 females were not from same harem. Spawning started in the early evening (dusk) in open water. This was in September, so spawning for these Centropyge angelfish seems to be similar to other species observed in the wild. Females were pushed and chased until both sexes released egg and sperm in horizontal positions. The tank had mirrored sides to prevent male from being too aggressive on females, since seeing “another” male was keeping him occupied and his attention off pestering the females. Lighting was 14 hours on with 2 hour dimmer. No special temperatures were noted.

Although this information is limited, it is fascinating and gives us a glimpse into the possibility of tank bred Centropyge . Since they will spawn with Coral Beauties and Flame Angelfish, color variations may be available in any future successful captive bred specimens.

• Ease of Propagation: Difficult - Though they will spawn readily and with 2 other species, they have very small mouths, and the larvae are very hard to feed.

Fish Diseases

Like other saltwater angelfish, the dwarf angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.

Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:

1. Parasitic diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.
   • Treatment of parasites
     For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
     Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
     The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone.
     The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief, but of course
      
2. Bacterial Diseases
   As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.
   • Treatment of bacterial diseases
     Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
      
3. Fungal Diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.
   • Treatment of fungal diseases
     Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
      
4. Physical Ailments
   Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..
   • Treatment for physical ailments
     Look for and remove bully fish.
     Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melefix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.

Availability

The Shepard’s Pygmy Angelfish is not as commonly available as other dwarf angelfish, and has a moderate to high price range.

References

• Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
• Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
• Vincent B. Hargreaves, The Complete Book of the Marine Aquarium, Thunder Bay Press, 2002
• Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
• John E. Randal, Fujio Yasuda, Centropyge shepardi, a NEW Angelfish from the Mariana and Ogasawra Islands, Breeder's Registry, citing Japanese Journal of Ichthyology, Vol. 26, No. 1 1979
• Steven S. Amesbury, Robert F. Myers, POMACANTHIDAE (ANGELFISHES), Guide to the Coastal Resources of Guam: Vol. 1 THE FISHES, 2001
• Bob Goemans, Centropyge shepardi, Aquarium Library, Saltcorner.com
• Dr. Gerald R. Allen, Butterfly and Angelfishes of the World Volume 2, Aquarium Systems; 3rd edition,1985

Author: David Brough CAS, Carrie McBirney, Clarice Brough CAS

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