Animal-World > Marine - Saltwater Fish > Marine Angelfish > Rusty Angelfish

Rusty Angelfish

Rusty Dwarf Angelfish, Rusty Pygmy Angelfish, Rusty Angel

Family: PomacanthidaeCentropyge ferrugataPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Hiroyuki Tanaka

The Rusty Angelfish makes a great detritus and algae eater, and in a compact size!

The Rusty Angelfish Centropyge ferrugatus is a vibrantly colored dwarf angel. It is similar in appearance to the Coral Beauty Centropyge bispinosus , but with more orange coloration. Like the Coral Beauty it too stands out as and excellent addition to the home aquarium. It is also one of the less aggressive angelfish, making an addition that is more likely to behave itself in your tank.

The Rusty Dwarf Angel is a great forager. Their natural diet consists mostly of algae and detritus, which keeps them very active moving around picking at the substrate and the rockwork. However, they will also will nip at coral polyps, sponges, clam mantles, tiny snails, and other reef life.

In captivity Rusty Angelfish are hardy and not too picky about what they eat,. They can handle some neglect and they will even breed in captivity. They do best in a saltwater aquarium with lots of rockwork, but they can become a nuisance in reefs. It is possible to keep the Rusty Angel in a reef tank, since most don't harm the corals, but you must keep an eye out for problems as the Rusty Angelfish can turn destructive.

The Rusty Pygmy Angelfish is generally not overly aggressive with their tankmates. Like most angelfish, they get along with tankmates best when they are only type of dwarf angelfish in the aquarium. However it can be housed with other species of dwarf Angelfish as long as they are all added at the same time. But be careful to only combine angelfish with very distinct color variations.

When choosing a Rusty Dwarf Angelfish, look for a specimen that is alert and picking at rocks. Its body should be filled out, have no fin or body damage, and it should be brightly colored. A healthy specimen will also show an initial curiosity about who is approaching its tank, then quickly dart into hiding.

All Rusty Angelfish are born female. They can be paired according to size by buying one large and one small Rusty Angelfish. Within a few months, they will assume their roles as male and female. Offer plenty of hiding spaces within the rock. Dwarf angelfish in general, under the right circumstances may spawn in captivity.

For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see:
Marine Aquarium Basics: Guide to a Healthy Saltwater Aquarium

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Rusty Angelfish Centropyge ferrugatus was described by Randall and Burgess in 1972. The genus Centropyge currently has over 33 species, and are members of the Pomacanthidae family. Centropyge will spawn in captivity and are now being raised in captivity, thus helping to preserve our ocean reefs. The common names, Rusty Angelfish, Rusty Dwarf Angelfish, or Rusty Pygmy Angelfish are derived from their rusty coloration.

Rusty Angelfish are endemic to the Western Pacific. They are found in Tanabe Bay then Southern Japan to the southwest tip of Taiwan, and in the Philippines. They inhabit seaward reefs that are surrounded by rocky areas to provide cover. The rubble areas close by are a good supply of algal growth. These dwarf angelfish are found alone or in small groups eating benthic algae, weeds, cnidarians, hard corals, coral polyps, sponges, and tunicates They are found at depths from 20 - 98 feet (6-30 m).

• Scientific Name: Centropyge ferrugata
• Social Grouping: Harems - In the wild, they are found in groups of one male to 6 females.
• IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - Stable population.

Description

The Rusty Angelfish looks very similar to the Coral Beauty, with the exception of color.  It has an oval body with irregularly shaped black dots on a golden brownish orange color along the top half of the fish and a brighter orange on the bottom half of the fish. There is bluish edging on the outer edge of the dorsal and anal fins.  The dorsal fin and most of the anal fin are dark.

• Maximum Size: 3.9 inches (9.91 cm)
• Lifespan: 15 years - They live 15 years or more in the wild. In captivity some have been known to live up to 10 years.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

Rusty Dwarf Angelfish are moderate to care for as far as providing correct housing. This is a fish for intermediate aquarists or a very dedicated beginner. They do best in a mature tank over 30 gallons unless they are the only fish, with 55 gallons or more being recommended. The best environment is one with live rock that can help supply the necessary amounts of natural algal foods, and positioned to create lots of hiding places. They also are harder on corals than other Dwarf Angelfish, so are not a good choice for a reef.

• Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy - As long as tank parameters and water quality is met.
• Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate - They are a moderately hardy fish, but the water quality needs to be higher than most saltwater fish.

Foods and Feeding

The Rusty Angelfish Angel is an omnivore. In the wild their diet consists mostly of algae and detritus. They will also pick on the polyps of any stony coral and most soft corals, as well as tunicates, clam mantles, cnidarians, sea squirts and sponges.

In captivity a diet rich in vegetable matter is essential, as well as some proteins. It is important that you feed angelfish all kinds of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. They do well on frozen foods with marine or Spirulina algae, mysid shrimp, shaved shrimp, and other high quality fare. A mature tank with live rock can help supply a good amount of natural algae foods (containing copepods and other small edibles) and diatom algae. There are also several good commercial foods available that are designed for angelfish, including Formula II and Angel Formula.

Feed several times a day even if natural foods are present. Unlike other Centropyge , who will stay away from noxious soft corals, the Rusty Angels seem to eat more than their fair share of corals. Keeping them well fed in a reef may discourage them from eating corals, but that is a risk.

• Diet Type: Omnivore - May get most of their veggies from the algal crops on the live rock. Otherwise provide spirulina type diet. Also needs supplemented meaty foods if the copepod population is not strong in the algae growth.
• Flake Food: Yes - If they will accept.
• Tablet Pellet: Yes - If they will accept.
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet - Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, as well as other protein sources can be offered occasionally.
• Vegetable Food: Most of Diet - They can get most of their vegetable from algal crops on the live rock, but it is also recommended to provide feedings of a spirulina type diet.
• Meaty Food: Some of Diet - They will eat the copepods found in the algal growth, but there may not be a strong population. It is recommended to also provide a protein type as part of their diet.
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Depending on size of tank.

Aquarium Care

The Rusty Angelfish is not as touchy as some of the other species of angelfish, but still needs good water. If they are being kept with live rock, water changes should be performed more often due to the need for clean water conditions with lower nitrates. Water changes of 30% a month, 20% every 2 weeks, or 5% a week is optimal in keeping nitrates lower. Keep PH at 8.0 minimum.

• Water Changes: Bi-weekly - Smaller tanks under 75 gallons. Larger tanks can get away with monthly water changes.

Aquarium Setup

A mature tank that is at least 6 months old is recommended for a the Rusty Angelfish. A minimum 55 gallons without other algae eating fish to compete with is ideal for its health. Provide Water parameters of: 71-82° F, pH 8.0-8.4, sg 1.023-1.026. For a male and female pair, a tank that is 75 to 100 gallons provides more food and cleaner water. It is best to introduce the Rusty Angelfish last. and as a young fish into an established tank with plenty of algae growth. Like all dwarf angelfish, they like to have lots of rubble type areas to pick natural foods from and larger rock work to hide in to feel secure. Housing these fish in a smaller tank, like the 30 gallons as some older publications state, is not suggested. Smaller tanks have less natural foods for this constant grazer. Also, with frequent feedings the bio-load is larger, which can cause the water to foul quickly. Smaller tanks can also invite a territorial and aggressive behavior toward other fish, since the dwarf angelfish feels that it must defend what little algae crop it may have in such cramped quarters. This leads to crypt and other illnesses from stress.

• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - 55 gallons or more is recommended. Housing these fish in a smaller tank is not suggested. They will get aggressive with tank mates and smaller tanks have less natural foods. A larger aquarium can provide enough algae on live rock to sustain the dwarf angelfish through a natural diet, and keep it healthy. 55 gallons would need at least 80 lbs. of live rock. (1.5 to 2 lbs per gallon)
• Suitable for Nano Tank: No - Not even as a juvenile
• Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places - Hunted in the wild, so the need to hide is very strong for this fish.
• Substrate Type: Any
• Lighting Needs: Any
• Temperature: 71.0 - 82.0° F (21.7 - 27.8° C) - The 82.0° F temperature is used when treating for parasites like Saltwater Ick / White Spot (Crypt).
• Breeding Temperature: 77° F - At this temperature, hatching is 16 hours after spawning. Longer if water is cooler.
• Specific gravity: 1.023-1.026 SG - Any lower can cause liver damage. Angelfish are sensitive to low salinity treatments, anything below 1.019 for extended periods of time.
• Range ph: 8.0-8.4 - Below 8.0 will cause health problems.
• Brackish: No
• Water Movement: Any - They like areas of swift movement as well as areas of slower movement.
• Water Region: Middle - Middle to bottom.

Social Behaviors

Although still considered semi-aggressive, the Rusty Angelfish is actually one of the least aggressive Dwarf Angelfish. However, if housed in a smaller tank they will become aggressive as with all Centropyge . Competing with other algae eaters can also cause them to “not play well with others.” A much larger tank would facilitate other algae eaters, such as a tank with a longer footprint close to 6 feet.

As with most fish, two males will fight to the death. Rusty Dwarf Angelfish do not get along with other dwarf angels unless the tank is well over 100 gallons and there are plenty of hiding places for both and plenty to eat. Making 2 separate "reefs" in a longer tank helps to "divide the line" thus the above mentioned 6’ long tank. However a pair, male and female can work in a 75 to 100 gallon tank. The Rusty Angelfish will pick at SPS, LPS, clams, and anemones. They will even pick at some soft corals, unlike some other “reef-safe” Centropyge .

• Venomous: No
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive - Semi- Aggressive It is best kept as the only dwarf angelfish in the marine aquarium.
• Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Male/female pair will work in a 75 gallon and 2 of the same sex in over 100 gallons.
• Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Monitor - In smaller tanks, they can be terrors to peaceful tank mates. (under 75 gallons)
• Semi-Aggressive (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Safe
• Aggressive (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Monitor - Make sure the angelfish is not hiding and comes out to eat.
• Large Semi-Aggressive (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will be eaten by large fish that can fit them into their mouths.
• Large Aggressive, Predatory (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will be eaten by large fish that can fit them into their mouths.
• Slow Swimmers & Eaters (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will out compete slow eaters, possibly leading to the tankmates starvation.
• Anemones: Monitor - May be safe if anemone has a clownfish pair to protect it.
• Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Safe
• LPS corals: Threat - Picks at slime the LPS produces, leading to slow death as LPS stays closed, not eating.
• SPS corals: Threat - Picks at slime the SPS produces, leading to slow death as LPS stays closed, not eating.
• Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Threat - Gorgonians can quickly be covered by algae, so that may be what an angelfish is picking at. Also, with the "feather" like polyps that protrude, the dwarf angel may very well nip at those appendages.
• Leather Corals: Safe
• Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Monitor - May pick at appendages.
• Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Monitor - May pick at appendages.
• Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Monitor - May pick at appendages.
• Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
• Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Safe
• Starfish: Safe
• Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Monitor - May pick at appendages.
• Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Monitor - May pick at the mantles of clams.
• Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Safe

Sex: Sexual differences

All Centropyge are born as female, and as they grow within their social structure, the larger and more dominant fish will become male, while the remaining fish stay female.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Rusty Angelfish has been reared in captivity, but not bred in captivity as of yet. Dwarf angelfish are broadcast spawners, releasing eggs and sperm simultaneously at dusk, a week before the full moon. They start mid-December and continue through May, at which time they will rise into the water column and release eggs and sperm simultaneously near the surface.

The eggs will hatch in just under a day, about 16 hours for water that is 77 to 79 degrees F, then within 2 to 3 days they need microscopic algae for their very small mouths. This is where raising any dwarf angelfish becomes difficult.

• Ease of Breeding: Difficult - Very small plank-tonic foods are needed for the larvae have very small mouth.

Fish Diseases

Like other saltwater angelfish, the dwarf angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.

Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:

1. Parasitic diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.
   • Treatment of parasites
     For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
     Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
     The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone.
     The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief, but of course
      
2. Bacterial Diseases
   As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.
   • Treatment of bacterial diseases
     Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
      
3. Fungal Diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.
   • Treatment of fungal diseases
     Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
      
4. Physical Ailments
   Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..
   • Treatment for physical ailments
     Look for and remove bully fish.
     Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melefix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.

Availability

Rusty Angelfish are moderately easy to find and pricing is in the low to moderate level.

References

• Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
• Centropyge ferrugata Rusty angelfish, Fishbase
• Centropyge ferrugata, IUNC Red List, International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources
• Helmut Debelius and Rudie H. Kuiter, World Atlas of Marine Fishes, (in German) Hollywood Import & Export, Inc., 2006
• Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
• Vincent B. Hargreaves, The Complete Book of the Marine Aquarium, Thunder Bay Press, 2002
• Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
• Dr. Gerald R. Allen, Butterfly and Angelfishes of the World Volume 2, Aquarium Systems; 3rd edition,1985

Author: Carrie McBirney, David Brough CAS, Clarice Brough CAS

• Centropyge ferrugata : $24.99
• Centropyge ferrugata : $29.99

Rusty Pygmy Angel Centropyge Ferrugata Small Offered By: That Pet Place Price: $24.99

Rusty Pygmy Angel Centropyge Ferrugata Medium Offered By: That Pet Place Price: $29.99

Back to Marine Angelfish