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Spiny Soft-shelled Turtle

Family: TrionychidaePicture of a Spiny Soft-Shell TurtleApalone spiniferaPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough
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My soft shell has not been eating lately and i don't know why?  chris brown

   There is no mistaking a Spiny Soft-shelled Turtle, ...it is often described as being 'pancake like' and having a 'pig snout'!

   Spiny Soft-shell Turtles are quite cute and comical as baby turtles. They are also very quick and alert. Many are graceful swimmers. "Watching softshells swim is like watching birds fly!" is an observation by one insightful turtle breeder.

   Despite their adorable appearance as babies the Spiny Soft-shell Turtle is a more difficult turtle to keep. Adults need to be housed singly or in small groups. Groups will need a lot of space, as they can grow into large, somewhat aggressive animals.

   The Spiny Soft-shell Turtles are best kept as display animals. Even so, you will find that some softshells will be great for this while others will bury themselves in the sand and rarely be seen. It takes a special keeper with a sincere interest to keep soft-shelled turtles properly in captivity.

For more Information see:
Selecting and Caring for Your Turtle or Tortoise


National Wildlife Federation
Geographic Distribution
Apalone spinifera
Data provided by GBIF.org
  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Reptilia
  • Order: Testudines
  • Family: Trionychidae

Distribution:    The Spiny Soft-shelled Turtle ranges from Canada to Mexico and as far west as California. There are seven subspecies. Many are found living at the bottom of the deep rivers where the water is quite cool, even in hot tropical climates. Many are also found in brackish waters.

Status   These turtles are not listed on the IUCN Red List. They are listed by the Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada (COSEWIC): Threatened.

Description:    Spiny Soft-shell Turtles have an upper shell, called the carapace, that is flat, kind of 'rubbery', and rounded. Their name comes from small spines on the pliable edges of the carapace. There are no scutes, the scales or plates seen on most turtles, on either the carapace or the lower shell, which is known as the plastron. They have a long tapered nose that turns upward on the end and has ridges. Their feet have claws and are webbed for swimming.
   All species of Spiny Soft-shell Turtle have an overall olive or tan coloring. On the upper shell or carapace, they all have black speckles. Most species also have a dark rim around the edge of the carapace, on some species there are a couple dark lines towards the tail end, and some even have whitish spots. The plastron is an offwhite or yellowish color and you can see the turtles bones through it.
   Male Spiny Soft-shell Turtles stay the same color when adults as when they were juveniles. They are smaller than females, have a bit rougher carapace, and a longer thicker tail. The female becomes darker as she ages with a grayish mottling to her carapace, and her tail barely extends past the end of her shell. Female Spiny Soft-shell Turtles can grow up to between 12 to 18 3/4" (30 - 48 cm) while males are considerably smaller.

Care and Feeding:    Spiny Soft-shell Turtles are carnivores. They feed readily on fish (avoid carp and catfish), worms, crickets, pink mice, crayfish, and shrimp. Once acclimated, most soft-shelled turtles will eagerly accept floating commercial diets. The key to a healthy turtle is a "balanced" diet, so be sure to provide variety.

Environment:
   Most species of Spiny Soft-shell Turtles will have to be kept individually or in small groups spread out in a large, creatively designed enclosure. If you overcrowd Spiny Soft-shell Turtles, you are asking for trouble.
   Provide a large enclosure and don't be afraid to go overboard on the filtration. Water in the 72{deg} to 75{deg} F (22 to 25{deg} C) range and in the neutral to slightly acidic (6.5 to 7.0) pH range are great for all North American species and most of the exotic species. The addition of live aquatic plants will make the enclosure more interesting and they will also help "acclimate" the water and add oxygen to the system.
   Most small to medium specimens of soft-shelled turtles, especially North American species, will bask if given the appropriate area. Sand banks and large fallen trees are used in the wild, but most will crawl onto a piece of driftwood or slate (or even a mat of floating aquatic plants) if these are all that are available. Be careful to build a system that prevents abrasions or injuries to the turtles' shells.
   Many soft-shelled turtle species are found in brackish water in nature. Salt inhibits the growth of fungus and certain bacteria. Therefore, the addition of one teaspoon to one tablespoon of salt per gallon of water can be beneficial to keeping them healthy.

Handling:    Both young and older Spiny Soft-shell Turtles should be considered display animals. They are somewhat aggressive, are strong, and will readily bite. Because of this, handling should be kept to a minimum and they will try to get away from a keeper. Their soft shells can also get scratched and these scratches can serve as the attachment point for fungus. Set up a beautiful, large enclosure and enjoy watching your softshells.

Breeding:    The courtship of the Spiny Soft-shell Turtle is elaborate and interesting. It includes waving of large webbed feet, extension of the neck, and head shaking. Breeding is aggressive in most species with lots of neck biting and chasing. If a group is kept together, during this time remove any uninterested females from the enclosure or add more hiding spots and obstacles such as driftwood and large clumps of live plants. A deep substrate can keep aggression to a minimum as the turtles will bury themselves quite deeply to avoid confrontation.
   Typically, Spiny Soft-shell Turtle females lay their eggs on sandy beaches or sand bars near the river, stream, or pond in which they live. Thus, most successful breeders offer a sloped, sandy, "pull-out" site in association with their soft-shelled turtle ponds. Some species are more adventurous and are willing to search out a proper egg-laying site even over some distances and obstacles. Others will be more sensitive and if a proper site is not readily available, they will drop their eggs in the water of their enclosure. If the eggs are found soon (most breeders feel within 4-5 hours), and are not damaged or eaten by residents of the pond, they will usually hatch.

   "We once removed from an indoor Guadeloupe River Soft-shelled Turtle (Apalone spinifera guadeloupensis) enclosure four eggs that had been under water for at least four to five hours. We successfully hatched three of them 57 (2) and 58 (1) days later." ...Russ Gurley.

   Hatchling soft-shelled turtles are probably the most sensitive turtles in captivity with regards to their captive care. They can be set up in 20-gallon long aquariums similar to other hatchlings, but they must be offered water of highest quality. This water should be free of chlorine, slightly acidic, filtered, and oxygenated. The addition of one teaspoon (North American species) or up to one tablespoon (others) of aquarium salt per gallon of water can help keep them happy and healthy. They should be kept warm (70{deg} F) by a submersible aquarium heater or an under-tank heater. Add a substrate of clean, washed river sand and add lots of driftwood and live plants to enhance their environment.
   Add a variety of small fish such as guppies, platies, and mosquito fish. Feed them live invertebrates such as redworms, earthworms, and black worms once or twice a week. Most species will begin taking a pelleted aquatic turtle food quite soon after acclimating and feeding on live prey. Reptomin® floating sticks are especially appealing to young soft-shelled turtles.

Ailments / Health Problems:    Scratches or scrapes can easily become infected if soft-shelled turtles are kept in enclosures with poor water quality. Prepare their cage furnishings carefully and thoughtfully. Use a couple of tablespoons of sea salt or aquarium salt per gallon of water and keep some Acriflavine and Silvadene® cream on hand for emergencies.

Be Careful:

  • Acriflavine: Many tropical fish keepers using Acriflavine suggest treating animals with an accompanying rise in the water temperature. Warm water temperatures in the suggested 85{deg} to 88{deg} F range can be deadly to soft-shelled turtles!
  • Betadine: Betadine (iodine) is toxic to some soft-shelled turtles, especially members of the genus Aspideretes. To be safe, do not use iodine-containing products with any soft-shelled turtles.

   Silvadene®: Silvadene® is an antibiotic cream formulated for use with human burn victims. It requires a physician's prescription, but is an important part of a turtle keeper's arsenal of tools. It has proven very effective in treating sores and shell problems in both soft-shelled and hard-shelled turtles.
   Salt: Many soft-shelled turtle species are found in brackish water in nature (especially Trionyx and Pelochelys). Salt inhibits the growth of fungus and certain bacteria, so the addition of salt can be beneficial to keeping them healthy.

Availability:    Spiny Soft-shell Turtles are occasionally available throughout the U.S. in pet stores, at reptile shows, and on-line.
   The lack of keepers willing to keep softshells will no doubt keep them rare in collections. The large size attained by many species, the expense of the large enclosure required, the need to keep only one or two specimens per large enclosure, and the requirement for live fish make the task both expensive and daunting.


Author: Russ Gurley
Additional Information: Clarice Brough, CRS
Edited by Animal-World.


Lastest Comments on Spiny Soft-shelled Turtle

chris brown - 2011-10-13
My soft shell has not been eating lately and i don't know why?

Reply
rebecca - 2011-10-12
I have had a spiny for approximately 3 years now and I just got two more but they are about half my other ones size...will my larger one harm or kill my smaller ones?

Reply
Carol Lee - 2011-07-31
I found 2 young (not babies) Apalones in a pet shop. They were in a ten-gallon tank, and just going nuts trying to get out. I bought them and a 55-gallon tank on the spot. They have settled into their new home nicely and seem okay.

They act and look healthy with the exception that their shells are curling up in the rear. What causes that and what should I do? Is it calcium-related? I want to help them but don't know how. I live in a small town and would have to drive more than 50 miles to a herp. I hope someone knows what is wrong with them. Thank you so much for your help.

Click For Replies (5)
  • Editor's Note - 2011-08-30
    I think the curling up as you refer to is natural as they are soft shell and the tail curls downward which has the shell sort of attached to it. So, it would naturally tip down when the tail does. If I'm wrong, I'd like to know. My son just brought one of these turtles (baby) to me that he found at his shop-he's a welder and the shop is right next to a pond.
  • kevin doyle - 2011-08-31
    I had the same problem with my spiny soft shell turtle. The back of his shell began to turn up at a 45 degree angle. The shell was turned up on both sides and the back of the shell as well. The pet store told me that I did not have enough uv light in the tank. I had him in a ten gallon tank with a ceramic coated uv bulb. I was hesitant about buying an additional light source, but saw a used one in the store for only $25, so I bought it. The additional light was a strip light (flourescent uv bulb). It only took a week and his shell is perfect, just as the day I bought him.
  • Carol Lee - 2011-09-13
    The curling up is NOT natural. These are not my first soft-shells; just the first ones I have ever seen with this curling-shell problem. The curling is pathological, not normal; that much I know out of my own experience.
  • Carol Lee - 2011-09-13
    Kevin: Thank you so much. Several herps (on the phone) did not know the answer to this. Do you happen to know whether your bulb was UVA or UVB? I don't know what these letters mean in terms of the difference between the two; only that the pet store has both. Perhaps there is another kind that is both? See how ignorant I am? Any help is extremely much appreciated as I am now completely in love with these two little clowns.
  • Wyatt holcomb - 2011-10-04
    Do yuo have a uvb light and a basking spot?
Reply
Sammy - 2009-09-11
I have 2 soft shell turtles, I cannot figure out what is wrong with one of them. A couple of days ago I noticed one not moving around and not wanting to eat. all it wants to do is lay on it's perch under the light. Any Ideas what might be wrong.

Click For Replies (7)
  • Anonymous - 2010-10-10
    It might be sick.
  • sylvia romero - 2010-11-09
    Mine and my sisters soft shell turtle has been doing that too! Idk what to do and we are scared that it might die:( did you find any solutions that might help us too!?

    -sylvia&angelica
  • Anonymous - 2011-03-01
    I own a turtle myself and that story is very sad. I named my turtle Dots. They are very cute turtles.
  • gil - 2011-06-07
    A drastic change in behavior and it not wanting to eat could mean that it's a pregnant female.
  • jonah - 2011-08-05
    It's because they don't like how the tank looks. Think of there enviorment (they like plants sand/mud/rocks in there tank. Hope I helped
    Jonah
  • Kevin Doyle - 2011-08-31
    I agree with Jonah. I have a softshell, red ear slider and a pascagoula map turtle. I just upgraded from a ten galllon tank to a thirty gallon tank. I bought a product called a "viquarium" from a company called tetra fauna. After I set it up in my tank, I noticed allot more activity from all turtles. My softshell even burries himself under the dry rocks (I read that they do this in the wild, but he never did it when I just had them in the water with rocks at the bottom). The terrarium cost me $99 from a local pet store. I probably could have gotten it cheaper online, but when I saw it, I just had to have it. Feel free to email me and I will send pictures.
  • Kevin Doyle - 2011-08-31
    I also read that you should de-chlorinate the water that you put the turtles in. Also, I read that your tank should have about one tea spoon of salt per gallon of water, because the salt helps the turtles utilize the vitamin D more effectively for their shells. I actually put about two tea spoons of sea salt in ten gallons of water and my turtles have had no problem.
Reply
Mia - 2011-08-28
I found an injured soft-shelled turtle and brought it home. It seemed alright on the outside, and it's bleeding a little on and off from it's neck and mouth. Is there anything I can do for it besides taking it to a vet? Thank you!

Click For Replies (2)
  • Toby Jungle - 2011-08-29
    You can clean the wounds if you can see them with a diluted peroxide solution. This will clean them and hopefull avoid infection. You can obviously feed him - if he is eating good - that is a good sign. It would be good to try and figure what he is bleeding about - a bite - what does it look like? - Wear gloves. If you think anything dangerous - do the vet. Could be a turtle thing or ran into something but if you think racoon or snake bite or something - do the vet.
  • adrienne - 2011-08-30
    He has to see a vet, he probably has internal bleeding and he could get an infection from outside wounds. he needs antibiotic. if he starts weezing, then he has a respitory infection, nothing you can do for that either. Vets don't cost that much for a turtle, my brother took his and the visit was $35.00 and the medicine is around 30. They will work with you if you explain your situation. I hope he is ok.
Reply
Editor's Note - 2011-08-23
I have some baby spiny at home. Some of them are sick now, they're dying slowly. They have this pimple-like spots in their body. Please help...thanks

Click For Replies (1)
  • Charlie Roche - 2011-08-23
    Animal World article attached and I can't find anything else out regarding ailments that isn't covered in the Animal World article. Try reading this first OK?
    http://animal-world.com/encyclo/reptiles/turtles/SpinySoftshellTurtle.php
Reply

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