Animal-World > Reptiles - Amphibians > Tortoises > Red-footed Tortoise

Red-footed Tortoise

South American Red-footed Tortoise, Red-leg Tortoise, Savanna Tortoise

Family: TestudinidaePicture of a Red-footed Tortoise, Geochelone carbonariaGeochelone carbonariaPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Russ Gurley
Latest Reader Comment - See More
I have a new red foot (about 6 days) he's a yearling. He hides in his log all the time unless I pull him out for his soak. That wakes him up and he will wander... (more)  Susan B

   A medium-sized tortoise, the popular Red-footed Tortoise is considered to be one of the most responsive and personable of the tortoises!

   The Red-footed Tortoise, also sometimes called the Red-leg Tortoise or Savanna Tortoise is described as one of the best pet tortoises. They are typically outgoing and curious. Besides staying relatively small they are colorful, hardy, and long-lived.

For more Information see:
Selecting and Caring for Your Turtle or Tortoise


Distribution:    Red-footed Tortoises are found in the tropical and humid forest areas of South America. They inhabit Guianas, Venezuela, Brazil, Ecuador, Paraguay and there are some on the Caribbean islands. They live in the underbrush and forage for fallen fruit, plant growth, and will even eat carrion.

Status   This tortoise is not listed on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species but is listed on CITES: Appendix II.

Description:    One of the most colorful tortoises, the skin and carapace (upper shell) of the Red-footed Tortoise is dark brown to black with lighter patches in the centers of the scutes and around the edges, usually a yellowish tan or red color. The plastron (bottom shell) is a bland yellowish brown, sometimes with a hint of red. A few or sometimes many of the scales on the front legs, as well as patches on the head are orange, yellow, or red. Due to the large natural range they originate from, this coloring can be quite variable from one tortoise to the next.
   A descriptive characteristic of the Red-footed Tortoise is their adult body shape, more pronounced in the male than the female. The sides of the carapace become concave, almost giving it a 'waist'. The shape of the shell is often described as a loaf of bread or an hourglass. A medium size tortoise, they stay relatively small growing to about 12" to 16" (30 - 40 cm) for most types. The male is slightly larger than the female and has a longer, wider tail.
   On the juvenile Red-footed Tortoise, the carapace is lighter. It has a pale yellowish background color that develops into darker patches as it matures.

Care and Feeding:    Red-footed Tortoises are omnivorous, eating both animal and plant material in nature. In captivity they will feed eagerly on a mixed salad of fruits and vegetables every other day. They should be fed some higher protein items once or twice a week. Most Red-footed Tortoises will eagerly feed on dead mice and dead chicks, but some prefer to feed them a high-quality commercial food once a week. Mazuri Tortoise Diet® and Zupreem Primate Diet® ("Monkey Biscuits") are great supplements to their diet.
   Water should be offered in a large flat saucer. This can be a cat litter pan sunk into the substrate (make sure the tortoise can climb in and out easily) or a large plastic saucer which is normally placed under a potted plant. These can be easily cleaned and sterilized once a week or as needed.

Environment:
   Red-footed Tortoises require warm, humid environments. A pair of adults will require an enclosure that is at least 4' wide x 6' long.
   The substrate can be a mixture of ½ sand and ½ peat moss. A layer of cypress mulch can be placed over the top of the substrate to help hold in moisture. The addition of piles of dry leaves, hay, and plants in pots can add to the natural look of a Red-foot enclosure.
   A variety of shelters can be offered to give the young Red-footed Tortoise a feeling of security. Add large pieces of curved cork bark, large banana leaves, piles of hay, or grass clippings for the tortoises to use as shelter. The shelter should be located at the cooler end of the enclosure and not directly under the heat-emitting lamps.
   Provide heat using a heat-emitting bulb in a clamp-type fixture over the enclosure. Ideally, you can hang a fixture overhead that will hold the bulb and keep it about 12" above the surface of the substrate. Most of these bulbs get very hot and so should be kept in a fixture with a ceramic base. The heat-emitting bulbs should provide a basking spot of 90{deg} F (32{deg} C) at one end of the enclosure. The heat in this area will allow the Red-footed Tortoise to bask and to digest its food properly.
   Lighting can be provided with a shop light fixture overhead that is fitted with one or two UV-emitting bulbs. These can be found at your pet store or on-line from a variety of sources. UVB-heat bulbs® from T-Rex products and Zoomed Reptisun® bulbs will provide UV radiation to the enclosure. This UVB is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis, which allows the tortoises to properly use calcium and to carry on metabolism.
Indoors:
   A glass terrarium works well for small and medium sized Red-footed Tortoises. A young tortoises can be kept in a 20-gallon long terrarium (20" l x 12" w x 12" h) while a medium tortoise will need a 40-gallon breeder terrarium or larger. Tape paper on the back and sides of glass terrariums to keep the young tortoise from constantly trying to walk through the clear glass.
   You can also use plastic tubs, wooden cages, and other enclosures; but glass terrariums are easy to find at the local pet store and they come in a variety of sizes. Of course, as the tortoise grows, it will need larger and larger enclosures.
Outdoors:
   All tortoises benefit from being kept outdoors for all or part of their lives. They received doses of UVB radiation, environmental heat, and of course enjoy a connection to the grass, plants, and soil found in outdoor pens. Outdoor enclosures should offer shelter from heat, a secure place to rest, and a water source. Feed outdoor tortoises three times a week and at their leisure they can eat some of their favorite grasses, fruits, and vegetables within the enclosure. Also be very diligent to make sure that outdoor enclosures are escape-proof and predator-proof.
   Red-footed Tortoises require warm, humid environments. If you live in an arid area, you will need to offer mud wallows or will need to turn on the water sprinkler once a day, especially during midday heat.

Handling:    Red-footed Tortoises are typically outgoing and curious. They can be hand-fed and strawberries, pieces of melon, and hibiscus flowers are some of their favorite treats. They usually won't retreat into their shells but will look around to see what is going on.
   Specimens that have been raised from small, captive-hatched babies and which are open to daily interaction over many years become the most tame and easily handled. You should however, provide a variety of shelters to give these tortoises a feeling of security.

Breeding:    An established pair of Red-footed Tortoises can be very prolific and in warm areas can produce year-round. A light winter cooling, followed by warm, rainy days triggers breeding in Red-footed Tortoises. Males are very eager breeders and a healthy pair can produce two to four clutches of 3 to 4 eggs each season, depending on the size of the female.
   It is felt by most keepers that the addition of protein and calcium to a female Red-foot's diet is essential in having her produce clutches of healthy, viable eggs. The young Red-foots hatch out in approximately 100 days at 82{deg} to 84{deg} F

Ailments / Health Problems:    As with most other tortoises Red-footed Tortoises are found in warm habitats. Thus, their captive enclosures should reflect this need. When kept cool for an extended period of time, you can expect a Red-footed Tortoise to begin showing respiratory problems. The early signs are puffy eyes, runny noses, etc. You should strive to maintain an enclosure that is hot and humid (but not soggy) to avoid these health issues.

Be Aware:

  • As Red-footed Tortoises are really only available as captive-hatched babies these days, you should not be concerned about internal parasites.
  • HOWEVER, many of the Red-footed Tortoises available on-line are "farm-raised" specimens. These tortoises are being produced in HUGE numbers on farms which are basically fenced off natural areas in their native habitat.
  • These animals have arrived in great condition, but some have internal parasites from being fed in large numbers on the soil on these farms.
  • If you are buying a farm-raised animal (a 4 - 5" animal from Brazil, Suriname, Venezuela, etc. from a dealer and not the actual breeder) you should have a vet run a fecal exam for you.
  • Collect a fecal sample in a plastic bag and take it to your local veterinarian. They will check it and offer treatment options for you.

REMEMBER: Ivermectin, a famous wormer in the cattle industry,
will KILL your tortoise.

(You might even remind your veterinarian of this fact though most will know.)

   Long-term lack of appetite, runny or smelly stools, and blood in the feces are signs of a problem and a keeper should approach a qualified veterinarian if any of these signs are noticed.

Availability:    Red-footed Tortoises are readily available from better reptile stores, on-line, or at reptile shows and expos.
   Try to purchase your tortoise from a breeder or someone with intimate knowledge of tortoises. Be careful when purchasing a tortoise on-line. There are many many imported "farm-raised" Red-footed Tortoises arriving into the pet trade (see ailments above). These animals are not necessarily the best for beginning keepers.
   Captive-hatched animals from a breeder are excellent animals for a beginner. A breeder will help you set up the proper enclosure and will give you helpful hints so you are successful. Also, if you don't have to ship your tortoise, that is always best. A beginning keeper should purchase a tortoise that is at least three months old to make sure it is past the delicate stage.


Author: Russ Gurley
Additional Information: Clarice Brough, CRS
Edited by Animal-World.


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Lastest Comments on Red-footed Tortoise

Susan B - 2012-05-08
I have a new red foot (about 6 days) he's a yearling. He hides in his log all the time unless I pull him out for his soak. That wakes him up and he will wander around the house a little and eats only a tiny amount (one small piece of greens or a 1/4 a strawberry or a 1/2 grape tomato). He has eaten only very small amounts. As soon as he is back in his enclosure, he returns to the log. How long will this behavior last? He is in a 4 x 2 small animal pen. Wire top. I have a basking area at 90* and a cool end about 70*. A UVB light, water pond and humidity about 60%. Is it conditions or bashfulness? Help or advice from those more experienced appreciated!

  • Clarice Brough - 2012-05-08
    Yeah, I'd be worried about his not eating. Try some different greenstuffs to see if you can find something that attracts him. Check with the previous owner about his diet, maybe he has a favorite food. If all else fails, get him a checkup with a veterinarian to make sure he doesn't have internal parasites or other illness. A vet will want a stool sample. He needs to be eating more...
  • Susan B - 2012-05-09
    He came from a Petsmart. They had him on freeze-dried pellets. I want him to eat fresh foods. I turned off his UVB yesterday for awhile and he wandered around his pen for a longer period. Last night, he burrowed in next to his log instead of under it. I read on this site that many ppl have experience with their red foots when they are rehomed, but they do come around. I will keep my eye on him...
Reply
ANN - 2011-04-10
How do I know if my red foot is male or female?

  • Charlie Roche - 2011-04-12
    Animal World does describe how to tell the difference between a male and female in the article on the red footed tortoise. It would be a lot easier if you had one of each and then you could put them side by side. However, without that, then hopefully you will be able to tell from the description in the article. I like photos but......easier to tell. I look up U tube and see if they have some photos with male and female side by side. You are supposed to be able to tell.
  • Susan B - 2012-05-08
    Females have a flat plastron and males have a concave one. Have to wait until they are old enough for it to show. Approx 1 year.
Reply
haileah - 2012-03-15
I just got a redfooted tortoise the other day and she's still just a baby. But I've noticed she sleeps a lot. Sometimes more than 12 hours. Why? Is it bad that she sleeps so much? Her tank isn't really big right now (I think it's a 20 gallon) but I do plan on getting her a bigger one soon. What all should I have in it? And whats the best kind of flooring she should have?

  • Jeremy Roche - 2012-03-16
    Cypress bark is a great substrate. Do you have the heat and humidity high enough. These are tropical tortoises. Some times a mister is needed to increase humidity. They really need 80-90 degrees with a basking area of around 95. If it is cooler it will slow them down.
Reply
Isabel Cerni - 2011-12-07
I have a baby Red-Footed turtle which is about 2 wks old. It is having a problem at the moment. When I checked on it two hours ago it was in some distress. It would raise its head high and then lower it all the way down as if it's going to die. It is not moving otherwise. Normally it would have been walking around. She had bananas this morning and it's possible she is constipated as someone else suggested on this site. What can I do to help her?

  • Charlie Roche - 2011-12-07
    I don't know what could be the problem but if you think it is constipation give him some baby fruit or just fruit.
  • pete winders - 2012-01-13
    In the wild, the tortoise will eat a variety of food, and will grow to be the weight of a small dog. They can eat a lot. But I think variety is the key. Our tortoises liked dry dog food (soaked so it is soft) for protein and minerals, all sorts of fruit and vegetables. Lettuce does not have much nutrition but has fiber. Some large tortoises should get very little protein, and would do better with hay. find a reptile vet.
Reply
Kenny - 2011-12-30
I have a redfoot my daughter ordered it's a baby redfoot the first month he was doing great the last few days he has basically not eating and today his legs are not moving very well along with he acts like he is choking when he opens his mouth he is bubbling saliva. I have kept his diet protein, veggies and fruits plenty of water and correct temps. I lost my daughter nov 7. This turtle is very important to our family can anyone please give some advice thankyou

  • Anonymous - 2012-01-01
    Don't feed it alot of protein! See a vet!
  • Alex Burleson - 2012-01-01
    The best advice I can provide you, is to visit the best veterinarian you can find. Provide them with a list of foods the turtle consumes, the temperature its enclosure remains, and the size of the enclosure. Best of luck!
Reply
Heather - 2011-08-02
We just got our red footed tortoise aka Rocky, and I noticed everyone talks about feeding it fresh veggies, fruits and protein, but what about the tortoise food that comes in little pellets? Our tortoise seems to really like to eat them and now he is going the bathroom regularly and seems more active. Before I started the pellets he didn't eat much or go the bathroom much. So is it ok that he is eating tortoise food pellets everyday?

  • Charlie Roche - 2011-08-02
    Pellets plus the fruits and vegetables and the protein you are doing works good. You are feeding as he would select from a menu. Good for you.
  • villy - 2011-08-25
    Pellets can not be 100% of the tortoises diet. Anything I've ever heard specifically state that it shouldn't be more than 50%. They NEED their fruits and veggies (though mostly veggies). However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with pellets as part of a balanced, varied diet, and my little redfoot LOVES his pellets. He'll gobble up most of his fresh stuff as soon as it is given, then pick at his pellets the rest of the day.
  • Lance - 2011-10-15
    You would be surprised what these hearty eaters will take down if it's put in front of them, occasionally I'll put a new piece of coral or something like that to decorate the habitat and they will begin nibbling on the rocks. They taste first and decide whether or not they like it later on.

    I had the same problem where mine don't really like their greens too much so I actually supplement their diet with the pellets you speak of but more often I actually use crushed up freeze dried chicken mixed with some very high end dog food that's made of 75% veggies and 25% meats but I still try to feed them vegetable medleys whenever I can get them to eat it but they go absolutely nuts for the mixture I described above and it makes them grow like crazy too. Since I started them on this diet it's made my dog angry but they absolutely love it, both of them dive head first into the dish and don't leave until the whole thing is gone.

    This may not be considered good, I really don't know but mine are very happy and healthy so I'm sticking with it partly because it takes about a week for the food to go bad so I can leave it in there and not worry about them if I have to go anywhere for a few days.

    Good luck and have fun with your Redfoot, they are pretty darn cool. I even have several other toads, water frogs and reptiles in a very large enclosure with them and the tortoises actually let them all ride them around the tank and they never snap at anything living even when the dog harasses them. Great little pets and easy to care for.
Reply

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May 25, 2012, 9:23 pm