Ornamental Tree Spider

Description:
   The Ornamental Tree Spider are a somewhat elongated species. Males average about a 7" (18 cm) leg span with females reaching up to 9" (22cm). They are gray overall with a wonderful, complex pattern of white and black stripes and chevrons. Both males and females boast a warning coloration of bright yellow spots under the first pairs of legs. These spots are flashed when the spider raises its legs in a defense posture.
   Mature males are slender and long-legged compared to females. After reaching maturity, a females life span is about 8 years with the male living only about 3

Care and Feeding:
   Though Poecilotheria species seem to prefer flying insects such as moths, they will feed eagerly on crickets, grasshoppers, and large specimens will even feed on an occasional small mouse.

Environment:
   The Ornamental Tree Spider is an arboreal species. It should be kept in a large, vertically oriented enclosure. A modified aquarium with part screened sides and screened top works best. If the enclosure becomes too dry, the spiders will not do well.
   One way to overcome the dilemma of the strange combination of needs - high humidity and high ventilation - is to use a deep (4 to 5”) substrate of damp sand and peat moss and provide several live plants within the enclosure. These plants can be placed within the enclosure still in their pots or can be planted in the deep substrate. These live plants will not only provide excellent places for the spiders to establish homes, they will provide areas for breeding and egg-laying.
   Add one or two shallow water dishes and mist the entire enclosure once a day to every other day, depending on the conditions of the room in which the enclosure is located. The cage should be allowed to dry out in between mistings.

Temperature and Humidity requirements:
   This species will do best if you maintain the enclosure at 78° to 82° F with a humidity level of 75 to 85%.

Social Behavior/Activities:
   These spiders are best housed individually. Though siblings may be okay together before their first molt, they will not be social as adults.

Handling:
   This species is very aggressive / defensive and should not be handled under any circumstances. The bite can be medically significant for some people. We suggest using a paint brush or other tool to corral the Ornamental Tree Spider and to move it from enclosure to enclosure for cleaning, maintenance, or for breeding attempts.

Breeding/Reproduction:
   The Ornamental Tree Spider has proven somewhat easy to breed. Mature males are slender and long-legged compared to females. Males have no tibial hooks for mating.
   Adult males should be carefully introduced into the female’s enclosure after he has produced a sperm web. The female should be very well-fed before any introductions as Poecilotheria females are notorious for attacking and eating males before any mating can occur. If both male and female are well-fed, success is more likely. The male can be protected with a piece of cardboard or other tool if he is to be used for further breeding attempts.
   Once mating occurs, the female should be fed in anticipation of an egg sac. The egg sacs of Ornamental Tree Spiders have tended to be small, in the 40 to 50 range.
   Spiderlings are hardy and grow quickly when set up properly and can even be raised communally if kept well-fed. Be sure to offer them a large enclosure with multiple retreats and hiding spots.

Ailments:
   Tarantulas are generally quite hardy and adaptable if they are provided with the right environment. A few signs that may indicate that your pet is not acting or feeling normal are a loss of appetite, lethargy, looking overly skinny, or pacing the enclosure.
   (A tarantula on its back is probably NOT sick.  Most tarantula species flip onto their backs during molting.  Though this is a very stressful and delicate time for tarantulas, if the humidity and warmth levels are correct, they will molt their exoskeleton, roll over, harden up, and within a week or two be ready for their next meals.)

• Molting: One of the most common reasons for your pet to demonstrate unusual behavior is due to a molting period. As they outgrow their existing skin all tarantulas regularly go through an extensive molt, shedding their entire skin as well as the linings of their mouth, respiratory organs, stomach and sexual organs.
     The process starts well before the actual molt. For several weeks prior to shedding they will be growing a new skin under their old one. During this time it is not unusual for a tarantula to get quite lethargic and even stop eating. There may also be lots of web spinning activity as they prepare to molt.
     When they begin to molt, they lay on their backs with their legs up in the air looking as if they are dead. Be sure not to disturb your tarantula when you see this. The shedding process goes quickly and smoothly as long the environment has adequate humidity.
     Once they have shed, their new skin is pale and very soft. The amount of time it takes for your pet to fully recover and be back to eating well will vary from a day or so up to several weeks depending on its size. Smaller spiders recover much quicker than larger ones.
• Other Problems: Other problems are usually the result of some type of environmental stress. There may be a drop in the temperature of the enclosure, there may be parasites, or the tarantula may just not be comfortable with the depth of its hiding place. These things can be easily adjusted or changed, or you can try moving your pet to a new enclosure.

Availability:
    Captive-hatched spiderlings are available in large numbers to hobbyists.