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Albino Corn Snake

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Elaphe guttataPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough

     Like all corn snakes, the albino corn snake makes an excellent pet for the advanced beginner.

     These colorful snakes will tame down in a short time becoming very docile, even tempered, and tolerant of frequent handling. They are very hardy and easy to maintain.

For more Information on keeping Snakes see:
Guide to a Happy, Healthy Herptile

Description:      The albino corn snake also referred to as the "amelanistic" or "red albino" is one of the most beautiful of the corn snakes. As an albino, they have striking, ruby-red eyes. Their body coloring is a pattern of dark red blotches on a deep orange background with a white belly. They have no black pigment. Like all corn snakes, their scales are lightly keeled.
     This snake will grow to the same size as a normal corn snake which is between three and five feet. Cornsnakes are a heavier bodied snake than the garter snake or the kingsnake, though their length is about the same.

Feeding:      They are a constrictor and their diet consists of mice and other rodents, chicks, and lizards. Feed once or twice a week, depending on the size of the food and the size of the snake. As you get to know your snake, you'll learn what its feeding needs are. Fresh water in a shallow dish should always be available.

Environment:      They do not eat other snakes, and so they can be housed alone or in groups with other snakes of similar size and habits.
     You can set up their terrarium as either a woodland type, a desert type, or a combination of the two with moderate humidity. See the terrarium types described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information.
     This snake needs a hiding place and a small water dish. It also likes to climb, so a vertical or semi-vertical tree limb with some plant vining is great.

Temperature and Lighting requirements:      They do well at 75 ° to 85 F in the daytime, and 65 ° to 72 ° F at night. Because they are albino, they do not do well in bright lighting. You can use a substrate heating device for basic heating. For additional heat you can add a blacklight bulb or red incandescent bulb. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated.
     For more detailed information see the Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care: Housing.

Distribution:      The albino corn snakes are breed in captivity.

Breeding/Reproduction:      These snakes, if not babies, need to be probe sexed for positive sex identification. Like all corn snakes they are egg layers and breed readily.

Availability:    The albino corn snake has been successfully bred and they are generally available as pets.

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To help with your question about the corn snake eating habits, sometimes there are a few precautions that have to be taken. First of all, you should (as obvious as it may seem) try making sure that you prepared the mouse the same way. Secondly, snakes eat their prey at room temperature, so make sure that it isn't hotter than that, or colder. The last thing that I can say is that sometimes, the snake simply won't eat. They should be fed once every week, and should not be held for at least two days after feeding. I have had my hypo bright orange corn snake for about 8 years, and there have been times where he simply didn't eat. I wouldn't stress over it, as long as you try to feed him/her, they will eat whenever they are comfortable. If this persists, try talking to an actual herpetologist (I am only 16, though I have done my homework) about sickness. Lastly, make sure the snake has a heating pad. If the snake gets too cold, it WILL die. Im sure you already knew this, but I have to suggest it because some people don't know. If you have any further questions email me at snakedoodle@gmail.com. Galen Greene 2009-09-15
I recently acquired an albino corn snake for my classroom. I am trying to use frozen "pinkies". Last week went fine and she ate the pinkie with no problems after thawing it first. This week she doesn't seem interested. Any advice would be appreciated. Shelly Harrison 2009-08-30
I've had my albino cornsnake for about 12 years. His name is Cayenne (his?). I was raised in a family that included lots of animals. Snakes were just apart of our menagerie... This included 2 king snakes, gopher snakes, alligator, blue belly lizards, garter snakes...etc. At least a dozen of reptiles alone. I acquired Cayenne on the last day of a closing pet store, that I just happened to enter... not wanting to give my money to a big box store. There was hardly anything left in the place but 3 terrariums. Cayenne was one. I felt for these animals and wondered about their fate. I had 40 dollars in my pocket...the lady gave me the whole set up. I had 2 young boys at home, I kind of wanted to raise them the same way. So my kids are gone, the snake is still here... he's been a great pet... but isn't he growing old? How long will he live... if he is getting old (like me!) I want to know how I can best care for him as a senior snake. Redwitch 2009-06-03
I have had my Albino Corn Snake "Pullo" for little more than 2 years. He was about 18" when I got him and is now nearly 4' long. He really seems to enjoy being held, in fact, he typically doesn't want to go back in his cage after I hold him. Scottwax 2009-05-22
I wrote back on 2-12 about Maize my new white corn snake. He is eating frozen (thawed) pinkies. I have been feeding him twice a week and he really seems to be thriving. He doesn't mind to be handled. He is actually shedding right now and doesn't seem to be bothered by it at all. Just wanted to tell all if you think your snake won't eat frozen, be patient and make sure the pinkie is good and warm. So far it has worked for me. Lori 4/5/09 Lori 2009-04-05

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