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White's Tree Frog

Dumpy Tree Frog ~ Smiling Frog Family: Hylidae
Subfamily: Pelodryadinae

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Litoria caerulea Photo © Animal-World: Courtesy Ken Childs

   The White's Tree Frog, a quiet critter with bulging eyes, is one of the most laid back animals there is! It is a very easy frog to take care of and thus is excellent for beginners and experienced frog owners alike!

   It is said that it would take purposeful effort on your part to startle one of these adorable frogs. Unlike many of their relatives, including it's close 'cousin' the White-Lipped Tree Frog, the White's Tree Frog is not big on jumping, and will generally only do so when startled.

   The White’s frog is a very gentle, laid back animal; it is said that it would take purposeful effort on your part to startle one. Unlike many of their relatives, they are not big on jumping, and will generally only do so when startled. One of their most intriguing acts is when they are eating, they stuff their food into their mouths with their front feet and seem to become all legs and elbows.

   They are an excellent first frog for beginning keepers; even children, with help from their parents to oversee feeding and occasional misting.

For more Information on keeping frogs see:
Guide to a Happy, Healthy Herptile

Distribution:
   White's Tree frogs are found in Australia. They are arboreal (tree) frogs and are found almost exclusively in the trees except in the breeding season, when they descend to the water sources.
   Originally from Australia, some of the first White’s Tree Frogs were exported to the United States in the 1950s. In the early 1970s, these hardy frogs were back in the United States, where herp enthusiasts seized the opportunity to breed them. White’s were commonly bred by a few top herpetoculturists in the late 1980s but seemed to disappear from the hobby until just a few years ago when breeding programs were reestablished with animals raised from the early days and probably from animals arriving from Australia illegally and from breeders in Europe. True White’s Tree Frogs are still considered to be rare, but now they are appearing more frequently in pet stores.

Description:
   The normal coloration of a White’s Tree Frog is a jade green. The females are the larger of the species, reaching around 4.5 inches, out-sizing the males by around an inch. They have supratympanal ridges that will form over their eyes, giving them a comical expression. The juvenile frogs’ supratympanal ridges are not as developed as those of the adult.
   Although caerulea means dark blue, that is not the true color of the White’s Tree Frog. A blue color can be achieved by keeping frogs in darkened terrariums or feeding them prey insects deficient of beta-carotene (although this diet may encourage anemia). Breeders are breeding for color and there are actual blue specimens and some are beginning to appear that have more white coloration.
   White’s Tree Frogs have a long life span of around twenty years, though it is probable that a 25 year old frog could exist. As with almost every frog, these frogs start out as tadpoles.

Care and Feeding:
    The White’s Tree Frogs are not picky eaters. They will eat many insects as well as crickets, soft (post molt) mealworms, pinky mice (occasionally only), and even other frogs.
   When feeding crickets it is important to ‘gut load’ them. Many people buying crickets remark that they die shortly upon coming home. This is because the crickets also need food and water to survive.
   The best diet for feeder crickets is one rich in variety and calcium. This can include Greenleaf lettuce, redleaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, carrot tops, shredded carrots, squash, apple, and more. Most cricket ‘water bites’ also contain calcium. A commercial gut load is also available. The goal should be to fill the crickets to the brim with vitamins and minerals that your frog will receive upon digestion. This actually makes your frog healthier. “You are what you eat”. If possible, dust the crickets with a mixture containing 1/3 calcium powder containing Vitamin D3 and 2/3 high-quality multi-vitamin powder. (The D3 is the ‘sunshine’ vitamin and is necessary for the ability to use the calcium coming into the body. You could feed all of the calcium in the world but the frog can’t use it without D3.
   Through copious defecation and the habit of smearing their mucous coat, a White’s Tree Frog can dirty up its cage rather quickly. To keep the cage clean, misting daily can help, but once every week or two, mist the cage with purified or distilled water and wipe it down with a clean rag to get the mucous coat off of the side of the aquarium.

Environment:
   For a relatively laid back adult, a 20-gallon ‘high’ tank will suffice, but a single specimen or pair would be better off in a 29 to 30-gallon tank. The species is arboreal (tree-dwelling) and loves to have the height. Any branches (and there should be many) should be about the same width as the frog, as they are not agile and the bigger the branch is, the easier it is to hold on to. A favorite is giant bamboo. The cage needs to be well-ventilated, but escape-proof, so it will require a screen lid. Suitable substrates include cypress mulch, commercial forest bedding, plain potting soil (without perlite or vermiculite), or a peat moss type litter.
   They need a SHALLOW water bowl; these frogs have been known to drown in deep water bowls. Keep in mind that they spend time in trees rather than in the water. You can mist the cage three times a week or so as well, as many will lick the water off of the tank walls and it also helps with cleanliness.
   See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.

Temperature and Lighting requirements:
   White’s do best at a temperature from 76-85º F. You can achieve this with a low wattage day time bulb, no higher than fifty watts (depending on the size of your enclosure), with perches at varying heights so that the frog can move toward the light or away from the light to a place where it is comfortable.

Social Behavior/Activities:
   White's Tree Frogs do well alone, in pairs, or even in large groups, provided that there is enough space for them all. They are easily handled and do not jump unless startled, which is pretty hard to do. They do well with children and adults alike and can be handled with ease. Because of the secretion of mucous, it is recommended that you wash your hands before and after handling.

Handling:
   They are easily handled and do not jump unless startled, which is pretty hard to do. The White's Tree Frog will do well with children and adults alike and can be handled with ease. Because of the secretion of mucous, it is recommended that you wash your hands before and after handling.

Breeding/Reproduction:
   Breeding White's Tree Frogs involves hibernating them for about 6 weeks followed by a 2 - 4 week period of feeding them and maintaining them at their optimal temperature just prior to breeding. You must also prepare a large aquarium for the breeding and tadpole raising to take place. While the aquarium is cycling you can prepare your frogs for breeding.
Preparing the Aquarium:
   You need to have a well-cycled aquarium of at least 100 gallons. Preparing the aquarium is relatively easy to do. Be sure to use dechlorinated water. It is easy to do this by setting up a large tank, maybe three quarters of the way full, and putting in feeder goldfish. The aquarium will be 'cycled' and ready for the frogs when there are no longer any harmful substances, such as ammonia and nitrites in the water. This usually takes about six weeks. There are test kits that you can purchase to test your pH, ammonia, and nitrite. As far as the range goes, pH should be from 6.8 to 7.2, while ammonia and nitrite should be at zero. For information on cycling the aquarium see: Cycling Your Aquarium.
   Once the water is established, add a submersible heater to keep the water in the 80º to 85º F. This will be ideal for the tadpoles as they grow.
   Provide plenty of aquatic plants, such as anacharis, Amazon swords, micro swords, crypts, wisteria, or others, as well as a floating dock of sorts for the frogs.
   You also need to set up a rain chamber. This can be as simple as a large plastic box with many holes poked in the bottom, connected to PVC pipe with water running through.
Preparing the frogs:
   While you are preparing your tank, you can cool the adult frogs for a few weeks to prepare them for breeding. To hibernate your frogs, take two specimens of different genders that are healthy, at a good weight, and are in their second year or older (which is when they reach sexual maturity). Make sure that they have defecated from their last meal before you begin the cooling process. Cooling with feces in their digestive system can prove fatal.
   You will want to keep them at temperatures of around 65º F with half of their screen top covered. You can keep them at these temperatures for as many as 16 hours a day. Keep the aquarium dark and offer no food at this time. You need to keep your frogs on this schedule for six weeks prior to breeding them. If at any time you see any signs of illness (eyes are not clear and bright, drastic weight loss, etc.), remove the frogs from artificial hibernation and slowly warm them up to room temperature.
Breeding and the tadpoles:
   To induce breeding, place the prepared frogs into the aquarium. You will want to keep the rain chamber running six to ten hours at night once the frogs are introduced. Breeding will occur in the ‘dry’ periods when the rain chamber is not running.
   It may take two to five days for breeding. Once breeding has occurred, remove the parents.There could be one thousand or more eggs that will hatch into tadpoles in 24 to 36 hours. The tadpoles will hover at the bottom of the tank but will become active within another 24 to 36 hours. Provide natural light if possible. If natural light is not a possibility, provide full-spectrum fluorescent lighting in a shoplight mounted 12-18” overhead.
   After the third or fourth day, you can start feeding a high quality fish food. You want there to be no more than 15 tadpoles to one gallon of water. Keep a very close eye on your water quality, preferably checking it at least once a day. The first metamorphed frogs will appear at around four weeks but some will morph much later.
   The biggest challenge in breeding White's Tree Frogs is the maintenance for hundreds or thousands of frogs, their food and caging requirements, and keeping crowding under control.

Ailments:
   The White's Tree Frog is very hardy, but as with all frog species health and hygiene go hand in hand. Frogs absorb most of their moisture through their skin. Pathogens from contaminated water or feces will also readily be absorbed. Providing a proper environment and keeping it clean is the best way to keep a happy healthy frog.
   Some of most common problems encountered by frogs include a bacterial disease called 'Redleg', intestinal impaction from ingesting sand or gravel when eating, blindness, fungal infections, Metalic Bone Disease (MBD) from insufficient calcium and vitamin D3, endoparacites, and stress. These can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.

Availability:
   White’s Tree Frogs are becoming more readily available and can be purchased for anywhere between $20 and $50, depending on size.

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Latest Comments
Hey yall. I have had 6 tree frogs for about 4 years, and they are so fun just to play with. One of the frogs got pregnant last year. Then we went to a restaurant and they served frog legs and they were so good. But after I got home and saw my frogs, I felt guilty about it. Their names are Robbie, Bobbie, Ribby, Fibby, Libby, and Jacob. Jacob was the last frog I got and I couldn't think of anymore rhyming names, so I put jacob, HAHA. Then my friend ate Jacob. she was drunk and I will never forget how sad I was when that happened. But she said it tasted good, but I am sad. And then I had to go to mobile (in alabama where I live) and I gave my froggies to my friend to watch over while I was gone. But she forgot to feed them. Robbie and Libby died. That was last week. The other frogs ate Robbie and Libby. It was so sad. I didn't know that frogs could eat other frogs. Jane doe 2008-10-31
I just got three White's Tree Frogs and am looking forward to the enjoyment I see you all talking about! I have only had them for 3 days and they are pretty shy as of yet. I have them in a 65 gallon terrarium that is filled with soil, moss, and live plants and plenty of driftwood to climb on. I also have a shallow water pool and a waterfall with a mister. I got the whole foggy jungle thing going on, it's awesome! I have a regular aquarium lid on it though, I wonder if I should switch to screen and specialty lights... KATHYT 2008-06-17
Hi! I've heard that some frogs get hand fed and now are berserk *cough cough* So yes this is unnatural behavior. You should do something like this... 1) Wear gloves. No I'm serious, Rule of the Dumpy: If it can't fit in your mouth, don't eat it. So wear gloves that are thick enough so he/she can't fit it in their mouth. 2)NEVER handfeed him. I'm sorry, but one day he/she is gonna break their jaw on the cage. Try "the tupperware of yummy" make a tupperware his food bowl and put him in there with 1-3 crickets. If hes not handfed, he/she will be forced to hunt. (P.S Dumpys are the only frog that can be too heavy and die, so hunting has to be firmly the way to eat.) 3) Stick to it! If he/she is not attacking your fingers take off the gloves and hold him. If he's good, feed him a soft, juicy wax worm and call it a day. THE END Dudette 2008-06-14
I became nervous when I touched it, but I had to do so, so that I can earn marks. sam nachi 2008-03-16
I have had one of these frogs for 10 years so far. These guys are so easy to take care of, and they are fun to watch as they eat. I have never seen a frog shove food in it's mouth with its hand(s). I never bred him, I wonder if he is too old... Robert Gallegos 2008-01-15
Some of the coolest comments:
I'm a teacher and we got our class pet..."Fred" a little over a year ago. He ended up being an escape artist, and escaped his cage twice. The first time for an hour. The second time for a year. I was sure he was done for, and we found him yesterday. He somehow survived in the Janitor's closet and was found yesterday hopping into a little hole in the baseboard. He seems to be doing well since we found him. He was the best pet! The children loved him so much!!! I cannot believe that we found him alive, and that he survived that long!! We are very glad to have him back... Leah 2008-04-05
I got 2 White's Tree Frogs a month ago. One of them soon got a swollen arm, which I soon found out to be a symptom of MBD. Once I got the calcium powder (get some with D-3) and started powdering their cricket food, and got the proper lighting. The petstore told me all I needed was an incandescant light, but I found out on here somewhere that I needed a fluorescent intended for tropical reptiles as well. the frog's arm went back to normal in a couple days and they actually seem a lot more active now than they used to be. They are adorable to watch, and sometimes if I play a clip of a White's Tree Frog croaking on my computer they'll croak along too! Legato 2007-06-01
Comments Dr Jungle REALLY Likes to Hear!
I just got my White's Dumpy Tree Frog today! It is an adult male and I am so excited:) I looked forward to referring to this site if questions arise... Thanks Tish 2008-02-24
I wanted to purchase my son a reptile/ amphibian for his birthday, and after viewing your website I decided that the White's (Dumpy) Tree Frog will be perfect. Thank you for the valuable information !! I know that he will love it Delaine Howden 2006-01-19

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Author: Monica Rearick.
Additional Information: Clarice Brough, CRS and Russ Gurley
Edited by Animal-World.