Potter's Pygmy Angelfish

Potter’s Angel, Russet Angelfish

Family: PomacanthidaePotter's Angelfish, Centropyge potteri, Potter’s Pygmy Angelfish, Potter’s Angel, Russet AngelfishCentropyge potteriPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Greg Rothschild
Latest Reader Comment - See More
Know put a gold, flame, coral beauty and potters together in a 1200 lt coral tank. That is a beautiful site, together for about 9 months with a gimatum, yellow... (more)  scallies

The Potter's Angelfish is a beautiful and breathtaking pygmy Angelfish found only in Hawaii!

The Potter's Angelfish Centropyge potteri is a magnificently colored pygmy angelfish. It is typically a bright orange with fine vertical blue to black stripes on the entire body, and yellow to orange fins. This is a good sized dwarf angel, reaching almost 4" (10 cm) in length, but does best in well established aquariums. For marine aquarists with some experience in keeping saltwater fish, the Potter's Angelfish would be a fabulous center piece animal.

There are only two dwarf angelfish that are endemic to Hawaii. The Potter's Pygmy Angelfish and the Fisher’s Angelfish Centropyge fisheri . The Fisher's Pygmy Angel is the smaller of the two, reaching only about 3" in length, but is also very quite colorful with a bluish sheen on an orangish brown body. There are also a couple other pygmy angelfish are found in hawaii, but inhabit other regions of the Pacific Ocean as well. The Flame Angelfish Centropyge loriculus is rather rare, but occasionally spotted in shallower waters, along with the Japanese Angelfish Centropyge interruptus .

The Potter’s Angelfish are moderately difficult to keep. They need a mature tank that is a minimum of 55 gallons. Tank size, tank maturity, tank mates and proper nutrition all play a role in helping to keep the Potter’s Angelfish. Offer plenty of hiding spaces within the rocks and lots of filamentous and diatom algae in natural form as well and foods with sponge material and meaty foods to supplement their diet. Since they hide quite a bit, to make them happy, provide lots of hiding places. They are not as aggressive as some Dwarf Angelfish, but will defend their territory, so they need to be the last addition to the tank.

Look for a healthy specimen, one advantage of dwarf angelfish is that their color does not fade like many of the larger angels. A healthy Potter's Angel should be eating, with a filled out body, and should be very interested in its surroundings. Look for one that is alert, yet curiousness about those who approach the tank. While they may initially hide, they should peek back out to size you up. It should also be difficult to catch. Fortunately since this fish is only found in Hawaiian waters, you never have to worry about cyanide being used in it collection.

All Potter’s Angelfish are born female and can be paired according to size, not necessarily color. Typically, the larger fish becomes male. Making a pair is possible by buying a larger Potter’s Angelfish and a smaller Potter’s Angelfish, and within a few months hopefully they will assume their roles as male and female. Dwarf angelfish in general, not necessarily these dwarfs, will spawn in captivity.

Dwarf angelfish generally avoid noxious soft corals as well as most mushrooms. The Potter’s Angelfish, though may still pick on soft corals. With LPS, SPS, and clams, interestingly, it is actually the mucous on the coral they eat, not the flesh of the coral, yet this nipping will still cause the coral to retract and eventually die from the stress of mucous munching.

For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see:
Marine Aquarium Basics: Guide to a Healthy Saltwater Aquarium


Geographic Distribution
Centropyge potteri
Data provided by FishBase.org
  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Actinopterygii
  • Order: Perciformes
  • Family: Pomacanthidae

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Potter's Angelfish Centropyge potteri was described by Jordan and Metz in 1912. It is on the IUCN Red List as Least Concerned (LC) with a stable population. This Centropyge species is endemic to Hawaii, and was named to honor Frederick A. Potter (1874-1961) who was the director of the Waikiki Aquarium in Hawaii from 1903 to 1940. Other common names they are known by are the Potter’s Angel, Potter’s Pygmy Angelfish, Potter Pygmy Angelfish, and Russet Angelfish.

The Potter’s Pygmy Angelfish is found mainly near the Hawaiian Islands and Johnston Atoll. They are typically found at depths from 3 to 450 feet (1 to 138 m), with adults inhabiting areas typically at 33 feet (10m). This dwarf angel inhabits the clear waters of seaward reefs among rock, coral or rubble and feeds benthic algae, weeds and detritus. They are usually seen in pairs or in small groups of one male with one to eight females. They will attack damsels and tangs that are indigenous to the area to protect their spawning site and food source.

There is an electric blue variety which has no orange is present and inhabit depths over 198 feet (60 m). This particular variation has been known to spawn with the Flame Angelfish C. loricula .


  • Scientific Name: Centropyge potteri
  • Social Grouping: Groups - In the wild, it is usually seen in pairs or in small groups of a male and up to eight females.
  • IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - Stable population.

Description

The Potter’s Angelfish is a typical shape for dwarf species, having a small elongated oval shape body, with rounded fins. They are typically bright orange with irregular, thin fine vertical black to blue stripes on the entire body, including the dorsal, anal and tail fin. The lower mid area of the body has a blue irregular oval area with some species having blue on the backs of the anal, tail and dorsal fin. The pelvic fins are a solid yellow to orange, and the pectoral fins are a clearish yellow to orange.

Males have a broader area of blue in the mid section of the body, reaching downward to the belly area. There is also an electric blue variant, that has black to burgundy stripes, which is found in deep waters over 198 feet (60m). Juveniles have similar coloring to that of the adults.

Potter's Pygmy Angelfish, Centropyge potteri
Photo Courtesy:
Seth Weintraub

They grow to a maximum length of 4” (10cm). They typically have a lifespan of 6 years in the wild. In captivity, a species at the Waikiki Aquariun in Hawaii had a lifespan of 14 years.

  • Maximum Size: 4.0 inches (10.16 cm) - 4" (10 cm)
  • Lifespan: 6 years - They typically have a lifespan of 6 years in the wild. In captivity, a species at the Waikiki Aquariun in Hawaii had a lifespan of 14 years.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

The Potter’s Pygmy Angelfish is an omnivore that needs feeding several times a day. Feeding them a variety of good foods is important. These include prepared foods with marine algae, spirulina enriched foods, mysis shrimp and high-quality meaty foods that are easily obtained at the grocery store. Make sure the meaty chopped pieces are very small since they have small mouths. There are several good commercial foods available including Formula II and Angel Formula.

  • Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Difficult - Hard to keep long term.
  • Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Foods and Feeding

Feed this Omnivore several times a day with marine algae, spirulina enriched foods, mysis shrimp and high-quality meaty foods that are easily obtained at the grocery store.  Make sure the meaty chopped pieces are very small since they have small mouths.

  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet - Will ingest copepods while grazing, which is a necessary food for them.
  • Vegetable Food: Half of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Half of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day

Aquarium Care

The Potter’s Angel is moderately difficult to keep. Water quality and size are important. Keep in mind these angelfish are constant grazers and like tangs, lots of food in equals a lot of bio load, so water quality must be monitored. They need a pH of at least 8.0, and water changes that do not include scrubbing algae off of rock. If the tank is 55 to 60 gallons, a bi-weekly change of 10% to 15% would be good. If your tank is over 100 gallons, maybe every 3 weeks to a month do a 20% change, and so on.

  • Water Changes: Bi-weekly - A bi-weekly change of 10% to 15% is suggested. If your tank is over 100 gallons, then every 3 weeks to a month do a 20% change.

Aquarium Setup

They will do well in a typical reef setting with live rock and plenty of places to hide. It may be helpful have areas of rubble for the algae to grow on, which will aid in feeding them their needed veggies. A minimum of 55 gallons is needed for one fish and 75 or more for a mated pair. Even juveniles need an established tank that is at least 55 gallons. Add dwarf angels to the tank at the same time and as last additions.

The aquarium needs to be at least 6 months old or more to provide all the necessary algae to feed your angelfish. Adding other algae eaters is not suggested, unless once the angelfish is established and it is determined they need help with the algae! Other algae eating fish, especially tangs and some damsels will not be welcomed by your Potter’s Angelfish.

  • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - A tank of at least 55 gallons with plenty of algae growth for a single speciment, 75 to 100 gallons (283 to 378 l) for a pair.
  • Suitable for Nano Tank: No
  • Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places
  • Substrate Type: Any - Adding areas of rubble for algae to grow on is suggested.
  • Lighting Needs: Any - In the wild they spend most of their time at depths that do not show off their colors as well as in an aquarium setting, so you want to keep them with medium to low light levels.
  • Temperature: 68.0 - 79.0° F (20.0 - 26.1° C)
  • Breeding Temperature: 0° F - Lower temperatures may induce spawning since they spawn from Dec to May
  • Specific gravity: 1.023-1.025 SG
  • Range ph: 8.0-8.4
  • Brackish: No
  • Water Movement: Any - While they enjoy brisk water movement, they like a calmer area with a lower flow in areas where they graze.
  • Water Region: Bottom - Generally they are found in rocks and crevices in the ocean, in the aquarium they will go anywhere.

Social Behaviors

The Potter’s Angelfish is semi-aggressive, yet more peaceful than other Centropyge . Like other members of this genus it is solitary and stays close to shelter. They generally dart from crevice to crevice exposing themselves for only brief periods of time. They can be kept alone or as a male/female pair. They can be kept in a harem of one male with up to 8 females, yet this would require a very large tank. Pairs need 75 to 100 gallons (283 to 378 l), but if putting in more than one female, add 25 gallons more for each additional female.

Sponges, tunicates, cnidarians as well as hard coral and unknown coral polyps have been found in their stomachs in the wild. So as with most dwarf angelfish, exercise caution when adding them to a reef tank. They may nip at corals and clams and have been known to chase after tangs and damselfish that are indigenous to the area they are found in, quite possibly to keep them away from their food source. Dwarf angelfish need to be the last fish added,into a tank with relatively peaceful fish that will not pester it as it acclimates. This angelfish becomes very aggressive in tanks under 55 gallons, and in tanks less than 3 feet long.

  • Venomous: No
  • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
  • Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Only male/female pairs.
  • Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Safe
  • Semi-Aggressive (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Safe
  • Aggressive (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Monitor
  • Large Semi-Aggressive (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Monitor
  • Large Aggressive, Predatory (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Threat
  • Slow Swimmers & Eaters (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat
  • Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Monitor
  • LPS corals: Monitor
  • SPS corals: Monitor - Most eat slime layer, causing coral to close and eventually die. In a very large system, the damage may not be as severe.
  • Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Monitor - May nip at appendages
  • Leather Corals: Monitor
  • Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Threat
  • Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Threat
  • Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Monitor - May nip at appendages
  • Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
  • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Safe
  • Starfish: Monitor - May nip at appendages
  • Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Monitor - May nip at appendages
  • Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat - Most eat slime layer of clams, causing clam to close and eventually die.
  • Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Threat

Sex: Sexual differences

In the typical orange variation, males have more blue in the mid section, reaching usually to the bottom of the belly area.

Breeding / Reproduction

As of yet they have not been bred in captivity. In the wild, the Potter’s Angelfish has been seen spawning between December and May around dusk. As noted by an observer in Hawaii, the pair will choose an area over a high outcropping of rock in their territory. The courtship beings with the male approaching the female and swimming vertically next to her, in a smooth wave like motion. He then positions himself above the female, stops, erects his dorsal and anal fin, flutters his pectoral fins and turns slightly to the side and drifts slowly. If she does not respond he begins again with the wave swim. This process is repeated until the female responds to his constant attempts to attract her.

When the female is ready, their red coloration intensifies and they produce grunts and clicks that are audible to observers. The male will lead the female to an area about 3 feet above a notably large outcropping in their territory where he continues his display. Once the female’s fear of being in open water subsides, she will positioned herself in a way to tell the male she is ready. Quickly, the male nuzzles her vent with his nose until eggs are released, after which, he immediately released sperm. Both ran for cover after the spawning with the female chasing the male, nipping at his tail fin. Both turn in for the night, as their offspring start their own journey.

  • Ease of Breeding: Difficult - Not bred in captivity at this time.

Fish Diseases

Providing a dwarf angelfish with plenty of places to hide and clean water is the best way to prevent illness. Calm fish are healthy fish. If not stressed, they will have a stronger immune system to prevent infections. Like other saltwater angelfish, dwarf angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Potter’s Angelfish are prone to crypt which is the most common disease. Under stress they can also contract Brooklynella, which is a common clownfish disease that kills quickly, and can contract Oodinium (Amyloodinium) infections as well.

Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.

Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:

  1. Parasitic diseases
    Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.
    • Treatment of parasites
      For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
      Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
      The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone. The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief.
       
  2. Bacterial Diseases
    As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.
    • Treatment of bacterial diseases
      Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
       
  3. Fungal Diseases
    Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.
    • Treatment of fungal diseases
      Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
       
  4. Physical Ailments
    Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..
    • Treatment for physical ailments
      Look for and remove bully fish.
      Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melafix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.

Availability

The Potter’s Angelfish is usually available online and in stores, but the price range is moderately high.

References

Author: David Brough CFS, Carrie McBirney, Clarice Brough CFS


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Lastest Comments on Potter's Pygmy Angelfish

scallies - 2011-06-07
Know put a gold, flame, coral beauty and potters together in a 1200 lt coral tank. That is a beautiful site, together for about 9 months with a gimatum, yellow tang, gobies and mandarine x 2

  • Charlie Roche - 2011-06-07
    Very creative and interesting. Must be gorgeous.
Reply
Chad - 2007-02-04
UPDATE: I recently had a nitrate spike in my tank. My Potters Angel stopped eating and died the next day. I was very sad to lose this fish. I kept him successfully for four months. Reasonably hardy but won't tolerate poor water conditions.

Reply
Chad - 2006-11-27
Bought a 3" Potters Angelfish about a month ago. He's in a 135 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump and a 30 gallon refugium. About 200 pounds of live rock and 100 pounds of live sand. Tank mates are: Passer Angel, Koran Angel, Blonde Naso Tang, Kole Tang, Yellow Tang, Sohal Tang, Volitans Lion. He was rather expensive and I was a bit nervous putting him in a tank with much larger and bolder fish. Especially after reading that they can be rather shy and rarely come out of hiding. He proved to be the exact opposite. Almost always out in the open, often grazing on the live sand. He is a beautiful fish and adds a gorgeous splash of vivid reddish orange and purple. One of my favorite and strongest fish. Farely rare and expensive but well worth it.

Reply

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May 25, 2012, 3:56 pm