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Oranda Goldfish

Family: CyprinidaeOranda Goldfish Carassius auratusCarassius auratus auratusPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Michelle Storsberg
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I have a red oranda with black tips on the fins and tail. Last week, there's dark (almost black) shading appeared on both his gills. Is this a health problem or a... (more)  Lee

   The Oranda Goldfish is like a Veiltail Goldfish but with a bit shorter tail, and develops a hood similar to the Lionhead Goldfish!

   The Oranda Goldfish is one of the most popular goldfish in the world. It is favored for its hood, a fleshy growth on the top of its head called the wen. The wen starts to show at about 3 - 4 months, but only really begins to form at about 1 - 2 years. The hood gets fully developed when the fish gets to be about 2-2 1/2 years old. The Oranda Goldfish in the picture is too young to have a well developed hood.

   This beautiful gold fish has a large round shape, shimmering scales, and a long flowing split caudal (tail) fin that fans out when it comes to a stop. It is not surprising that the Chinese refer to it as the "flower of the water". In Japan it is called 'Oranda Shishigashiri', and a calico version they call 'Azuma Nishiki'. In the Orient, though the common name Oranda is applied to these fish, varieties with the fleshy growth covering the entire head are known as Tigerhead or Tiger Goldfish.

Picture of Oranda Goldfish, Carassius auratus
Photo ©Animal-World

   Rather than having the long slender body of the Common Goldfish or the Shubunkins, The Oranda Goldfish is one of the more rounded or egg-shaped fancy gold fish. All of their fins are paired except the dorsal fin, and the tail fin is usually split. They can have metallic or matte scales and are available in a wide variety of colors including red, black, calico, chocolate and red/white combinations and a more recently developed blue color. A favorite variety is the Redcap Oranda which is totally white except for a cherry red hood, looking just like a cap.

   Oranda Goldfish are very popular and are found in collectors tanks throughout the world. But although they are widely available, they are considered delicate and not recommended as a beginner fish. Unlike the flat-bodied types of goldfish, they have a lower tolerance for pollution and cannot tolerate extremely cool temperatures. The hood is subject to infection from debris, bacteria, and fungi that settles in the tiny folds.

For more goldfish information and taking care of goldfish, see:
Goldfish Care: Fancy Goldfish and Goldfish Diseases


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Geographic Distribution
Carassius auratus auratus
Data provided by FishBase.org
  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Actinopterygii
  • Order: Cypriniformes
  • Family: Cyprinidae

Habitat: Distribution / Background

   The goldfish of today are descendants of a wild carp fish, known as the Prussian Carp, Silver Prussian carp, or Gibel Carp Carassius gibelio (syn: Carassius auratus gibelio) which was described by Bloch in 1782. For many years it was believed that goldfish had originated from the Crucian Carp or Golden Carp Carassius auratus auratus described by Linnaeus in 1758, but more recent research is pointing toward the former.

   These wild carp originated in Asia; Central Asia (siberia). They inhabit the slow moving and stagnant waters of rivers, lakes, ponds, and ditches feeding on plants, detritus, small crustaceans, and insects. In the early 1500's these fish were exported first to Japan and then to Europe and were developed into the wonderful colors and forms of gold fish we see today. The Oranda Goldfish is one of the older varieties of fancy goldfish, today there are more than 125 captive bred fancy varieties.

  • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus auratus
  • Social Grouping: Groups
  • IUCN Red List: NE - Not Evaluated or not listed - There are no wild populations of this captive bred variety.

Description

   The Oranda Goldfish is an egg-shaped variety of goldfish. The body has a large round shape, shimmering scales, and a long flowing split caudal (tail) fin that fans out when it stops swimming. All of their fins are paired except the dorsal fin, and the tail fin is generally split. In the Orient, though the common name Oranda is applied to these fish, a variety with the fleshy growth covering its entire head is known as the Tigerhead or Tiger Goldfish. The Chinese have also developed a telescope eye variety of Oranda.

  • Goldfish colors
    Orandas can have metallic or matte scales and are available in a wide variety of colors including red, black, calico, chocolate and red/white combinations and a more recently developed blue color. A favorite variety is the Redcap Oranda which is totally white except for a cherry red hood, looking just like a cap.
  • Size - Weight
    Oranda Goldfish will generally reach about 6 - 7 inches (5-18 cm), though they have been known to grow much larger in many aquarists tanks. The largest known Oranda Goldfish is Bruce, bred in Hong Kong at the TungHoi Aquarium, where he is reported to have reached a whopping 15 inches (38 cm) in length.
  • Goldfish lifespan
    The average goldfish lifespan is 10 – 15 years, though living 20 years or more is not uncommon in well maintained goldfish aquariums and ponds.
  • Maximum Size: 7.0 inches (17.78 cm) - There have been reports of well cared for adults reaching double this size.
  • Lifespan: 20 years

Fish Keeping Difficulty

   Oranda Goldfish are some of the more delicate species of goldfish. Unlike the flat-bodied types of goldfish, they have a lower tolerance for pollution. Its hood is subject to infection from debris, bacteria, and fungi that settles in the tiny folds. They will need good care and plenty of space

   Many people will keep goldfish in small one or two gallon goldfish bowls with no heater or filtration. But for the best success in keeping goldfish, provide them the same filtration, especially biological filtration, that other aquarium residents enjoy.

  • Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy - The Wen is prone to infection, if the aquarist notices any rawness or irritation it is wise to treat right away.
  • Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Foods and Feeding

   Since they are omnivorous, the Oranda Goldfish will generally eat all kinds of fresh, frozen, and flake foods. To keep a good balance give them a high quality flake food everyday. To care for your Lionhead Goldfish, feed brine shrimp (either live or frozen), blood worms, Daphnia, or tubifex worms as a treat. It is usually better to feed freeze-dried foods as opposed to live foods to avoid parasites and bacterial infections that could be present in live foods. Due to their fleshy head growth they can have poor vision and a harder time seeing their food, so need extra time to feed.

  • Diet Type: Omnivore
  • Flake Food: Yes
  • Tablet Pellet: Yes
  • Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
  • Vegetable Food: Some of Diet
  • Meaty Food: Some of Diet
  • Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day

Aquarium Care

   Regular weekly water changes of 1/4 to 1/3 is strongly recommended to keep these fish healthy. Snails can be added as they reduce the algae in the tank, helping to keep it clean.

  • Water Changes: Weekly

Aquarium Setup

   Setting up an aquarium in a manner that will keep your fish happy and healthy is the first step to successfully fish keeping. Here are aquarium parameters to consider in choosing goldfish aquariums, filtration, lighting, and decor as well as temperature and water movement.

  • Minimum Tank Size / Length:
    The shape and size of the goldfish aquarium is important and depends upon the number of fish you are going to keep. Goldfish need a lot of oxygen and produce a lot of waste. Keep the tank size and shape in mind when you are buying your fish.
    • Tank Shape
      A large surface area of water will help minimize goldfish suffering from an oxygen shortage. Surface area is determined by the shape of the tank. For the same volume of water, an elongated tank offers more surface area (and oxygen) than a tall tank. In a goldfish bowl, filling the bowl to the middle offers more surface area than filling the bowl to the top. Always provide the maximum amount of surface area.
    • Tank size
      It's best to start with a 20 - 30 gallon tank for your first goldfish and then increase the size of the tank by 10 gallons for each additional goldfish. Providing a large amount of water per fish will help dilute the amount of waste and reduce the number of water changes needed
    • Formula: # of fish per gallon of water
      A general rule of thumb, but only for young fish, is 1 inch of fish (2.54 cm) per 1 gallon of water. This rule applies only to young fish and is not adequate as they grow. Larger gold fish consume much more oxygen than young fish so maintaining this formula for growing fish will stunt them, and can contribute to disease and even death.
    • Fish: size and growth
      To allow for growth, either buy fewer fish than the maximum number of fish (based on the formula above) or be prepared to get a larger tank. Larger gold fish consume much more oxygen than young fish so maintaining this formula for growing fish will stunt them, and can contribute to disease and even death
  • Aquarium Lighting
    Most aquariums come with a cover that includes lighting. A cover for the tank is desirable as it reduces evaporation and though they are not prone to jumping, on occasion some gold fish will jump out. Lighting is not essential for goldfish, but does make the aquarium a nice show piece and lighting will help if you have live plants.
  • Filtration
    Goldfish produce a lot of waste. Good filtration, especially biological filtration, is very helpful in maintaining the water quality of the aquarium. Filtration systems remove much of the detritus, excess foods and waste. This helps keep the tank clean and maintain the general health of the goldfish.
  • Substrate
    Provide a gravel substrate to help create a natural and comfortable environment for your fish. A medium sized gravel works best..
  • Aquarium Decor
    You can add some decor, but make sure that all ornamentation is smooth with no protruding points or sharp edges. Smooth rocks or driftwood, should be used sparingly if at all.
    Aquarium plants would be the best choice of aquarium decor for goldfish, but unfortunately these fish are diggers. Consequently live plants may be uprooted. Artificial plants make a good substitute and silk plants are safer than plastic ones.
  • Temperature: Goldfish are a cold water fish and will do best at temperatures between 65 - 72° F (18°- 22° C). Unlike the flat-bodied types of goldfish, they have a lower tolerance for pollution and cannot tolerate temperatures much below 60° F (16° C).
  • Water Hardness: 5 - 19° dGH
  • ph: 6.0 to 8.0
  • Water Movement: Moderate.
  • Water Region: These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.
  • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gal (38 L) - Ten gallons is the absolute minimum required to house this type of fancy goldfish. It has high oxygen requirements, produces a lot of waste, and will have very stunted growth if it is kept in a smaller aquarium or bowl.
  • Substrate Type: Any
  • Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
  • Temperature: 65.0 - 72.0° F (18.3 - 22.2° C)
  • Range ph: 6.0-8.0
  • Hardness Range: 5 - 19 dGH
  • Brackish: No
  • Water Movement: Moderate
  • Water Region: All

Social Behaviors

   Goldfish are very social animals and thrive in a community. Not only are they a great community fish but they are great scavengers as well. It is really not necessary to add other scavengers or other bottom feeders to the aquarium when you have goldfish.

  The Oranda Goldfish is not a fast swimmer. They cannot vigorously compete for food with fast swimming types of goldfish like the the Common Goldfish, Comet Goldfish, the Shubunkin, so may not fare well if housed with them, but they will do well housed with other egg-shaped varieties if the environment is well cared for.

  • Venomous: No
  • Temperament: Peaceful
  • Compatible with:
    • Same species - conspecifics: Yes
    • Peaceful fish (): Safe
    • Semi-Aggressive: (): Threat
    • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Safe - not aggressive
    • Plants: Threat - Goldfish will eat many kinds of aquatic plants, and their constant search for food can end up uprooting plants that they don't eat.

Sex: Sexual differences

   Although is it impossible to sex Goldfish when they are young and not in breeding season, the male is usually smaller and more slender that the female. In the breeding season the male has white prickles, called breeding tubercles, on its gill covers and head. Seen from above the female will have a fatter appearance as she is carrying eggs.

Breeding / Reproduction

   Oranda Goldfish are egg layers that spawn readily in the right conditions. See Breeding Freshwater Fish - Goldfish for more information on breeding Goldfish.

  • Ease of Propagation: Moderate

Fish Diseases

   Goldfish are subject to the same diseases as tropical fish. A couple of the more common problems are Ich, Swim Bladder Disease, and external parasites including flukes, lice and anchor worms. For more in-depth information about goldfish diseases and illnesses, see: Goldfish Care; Fancy Goldfish and Goldfish Diseases.

Availability

   The Oranda Goldfish is readily available in fish stores and on-line, and is inexpensive. Fancier or rarer types can be more expensive.

References

Animal-World References
Freshwater Fish and Plants Tropical Fish ~ Freshwater Fish ~ Aquatic Plants

Author: David Brough. CFS.


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Lastest Comments on Oranda Fancy Goldfish

Lee - 2011-10-10
I have a red oranda with black tips on the fins and tail. Last week, there's dark (almost black) shading appeared on both his gills. Is this a health problem or a sign of him maturing, for example?? Please help xx

Click For Replies (1)
  • Ashley - 2011-12-28
    Don't panic. This happened to me too. I did reasearch and found your oranda changes like this when they age. good luck!
Reply
vipin - 2011-12-08
i had an oranda...i want to know which goldfish is best to keep wth oranda..please specify the names

Click For Replies (2)
  • Charlie Roche - 2011-12-09
    Pretty much any of the goldfish that will be approximately the same size as the adults. Another thought would be to go with some of the varieties of the oranda such as the red cap or the calico.
  • Ashley - 2011-12-28
    I have an oranda and a fantail goldfish. They get along well because they are both slow swimmers and there is not much competition for food. They are similar fish an get along well together.
    -hope this helps
Reply
vipin - 2011-12-09
hi..
i have a red cap oranda..i bought tis one with a Ryukin goldfish..but after 2 days ryukin died,,
again after 2 months i gt 1 mre ryukin goldfish..he also died in 2 days in same fashion lik the old1..
every tme i leave a goldfish wth oranda..
oranda stick wth tht goldfish
is she harming tht goldfish??
wch goldfish i should brng tis time..please specify the name?????/

Reply
Rob - 2011-09-05
I have an all orange oranda, a pretty good size and a silver goldfish in a 30 gallon. I tried to put an orange goldfish in and these 2 were picking on him. So we had to take them out. Do orandas and a bigger goldfish get along with 4 black moors, one is a baby, and a telescopic? I was thinking of putting the 2 with the others cause I have a 75 gallon.

Click For Replies (1)
  • Toby Jungle - 2011-09-07
    They are all community fish and so they should get along. My concerns would be about making sure the moors and telescopic fish get enough to eat - as they don't see as well - actually don't see well at all and so they don't move as fast. That is just a thought. How big is the baby? Big enough to hold it's own? 75 gallon should be large enough. There can always be a bad guy so just watch.
Reply
susan - 2010-09-28
Hi I have a new filter the one where water gets sucked in and pours out of top but after a couple of days it has reduced to a trickle is this normal?

Click For Replies (2)
  • steve - 2011-08-15
    Could be time to clean your filter.
  • Robin - 2011-08-31
    That is not normal. The flow should stay the same as it was when you first set it up. Clean out you filter, change your carbon and, look for any clogs.
Reply
Simon - 2010-09-19
My redcap oranda looks like there is water inside his wen. He swims upside down or with his head facing down which looks heavy with water and is drawn towards the bottom. Has anyone ever encountered this?

Click For Replies (4)
  • ST - 2010-10-09
    It sounds like he has air in his belly this comes from them eating at the top of the tank it will cause them to swim butt up or even upside down soak frozen peas in some tank water then squeeze the meat out of them (only a couple) this will help release the air.
  • Robin - 2011-06-25
    I don't know anything about water in his ren. It is more likely that your fish has swim blatter disease. (It is really a disorder not a disease.) It just means his swim bladder is deformend and he is prone to storing gasses which make him float upside down. His condition can be managed through his diet. Stay away from flaked food. I feed mostly mine peas, and frozen bood worms. You can also feed them lettace, spinach, carrots and other frozen fish foods. Feed him peas when ever he gets really floaty it should help.
  • chey - 2011-07-07
    This is called swim bladder, it is usually caused by swallowing to much air from eating pelllets from the top of the tank, resulting in floating, or head down swimming. This can be reversed by feeding your fish a few skined peas, perferably frozen, not caned and presoaking your fish food befor you put it in the tank, even if you have sinking food.
  • gary - 2011-07-31
    I had this same problem with my orando’s, it was like this for a week, and it’s called swim bladder and very often happens to orando's. Let me assure you it is not going to die. I did a 90% water change and altered their diet, one day it's flake food which is sometimes the best thing to do as some flake food can cause swim bladder, then alternate to peas out the skin and tomatoes. This worked great for me, remember orando’s eat fruit in their natural habitat as well, giving them fruit will help with swim bladder it stops constipation in the bladder, if you notice long strips of excrement from the orando’s then that’s because he is constipated. Please remember when feeding fruit keep the portions down to small pieces, you do not want the fruit sitting too long on the bottom of your tank, so small portion and eatable sizes. Hope this has helped, my orando’s are very healthy now and I think it’s just down to good management of the fish tank along with fruit in their diet. Gary Holtom
Reply

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