Pet Mice - Fancy Mice

Family: MuridaePicture of Dora, a Pet Mouse, Fancy Mice Pictures"Dora the Mouse"Mus musculusPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough
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Remember that while males should live on their own (they'll fight with other boys, and you don't want them to breed with females), girls absolutely have to be kept... (more)  Sophie

   Mice continue to be one of the most popular "pocket pets", a term used with small pets that will fit into your pocket! 

   Mice are great pets for several reasons. They are small, inexpensive, and very easy to care for. They are very clean animals that continually groom themselves by licking and combing their fur. Female mice are odorless. If they are well taken care of and handled often they can become very tame and enjoyable. They are a great first pet for children.

   Dr. Jungles says..."this is the perfect pocket pet!"

"Dora" is a Common mouse, and a great Pocket Pet!
"Dora" Photo © Animal-World

  Mice are the smallest mammals to ever be domesticated, and mouse breeding is an ancient hobby. The common mouse is a curious little creature that makes a very interesting companion. (They are also very cute!). They have a life span of 1 to 3 years.

   They not only captivate our imagination but mice play a very important part in history as well. One of our favorite mice is Mickey Mouse who has delighted us since the late 1920's.

   The mouse is a very adaptable creature who can thrive in almost any environment and has resisted mans' attempts to eradicate it for centuries. Mankind has learned a lot from studying mice and using them in a variety of situations to determine what would happen to people in the same situation. They are not only interesting, but educational!

For information about Small Animals and their care visit:
Guide to a Happy, Healthy Small Animal


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Geographic Distribution
Mus musculus
Data provided by GBIF.org
  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Mammalia
  • Order: Rodentia
  • Family: Muridae

Scientific name:

Mus musculus - House Mice
Mus sylvaticus - Field Mice
Mus minutus - Harvest Mice
Mus musculus domesticus -
 are the "Pet Mice" or "Fancy Mice"

Background:

   House Mice originated in the central and southern parts of Asia, but are very adaptable and have spread all over the world. The Pet Mice or Fancy Mice are domesticated forms of the House Mice.
   In Europe and Asia people began to exchanged mice for their fur and coloring in the 1800's and the term "fancy mice" came into use. In about 1900, Walter Maxey and other mouse fanciers formed the National Mouse Club in England and "fancy mice" have since been kept and bred as a pet.

   Mice have been used for many purposes over many centuries. The word "mouse" comes from a 4,000 year old word 'mush' which means 'to steal'. In the orient, mice were used by the Chinese in religious rituals as early as 1100 B.C., referring to them as the "ancient one", while the Japanese believed them to be a messenger from the gods. Greeks used them to predict the future and even worshipped them, sailors and miners used them to test air quality in submarines and mines, science uses them to study genetics and disease, and they have even been sent to outer space.

Description:

   Mice weigh on average 1 ounce and are approximately 2.5 to 3.5 inches long (without the tail).
   The fancy mice or pet mice are a domesticated form of the wild house mouse, of which there are a number of different subspecies. Today there are many different varieties of pet mice or fancy mice. The most common domestic mice are the white albino ones which were (and still are) used in laboratories.
   Various other mice strains have been developed in laboratories from inbreeding. These various strains will have individual characteristics such as being a more long lived mouse, or one that tends to develop more tumors, or needs a specialized diet, as well as other traits such as being more temperamental, more nippy, or more flighty.

   There are some unique strains of mice!
One is known as the "waltzing" or "shaker" mice, or sometimes the "Japanese" mice as they were first recognized in Japan. These mice are defective in their balancing ability and appear to "waltz" rather than move about as normal mice do. Another is the "singing" mice that make a faint twittering sound that is distinct from other mice and makes us think of singing.

   Pet mice are available in several colors and patterns due to specialized breeding by mouse hobbyists. Actually there are more than 70O color and coat varieties. Coats can be smooth, curly, longhaired or even a combination of these. The most usual color variations include brown, black, tan, gray and albino with both lighter and darker shades of these as well.

Environment:

   There are many different cages available for keeping mice as pets. One of the best kind is a glass terrarium with a wire top. When considering where to put your mouse cage, think about what problems could arise by putting it in different places. You should’t put it directly in front of a window, as sunlight tends to annoy mice and make them very uncomfortable. You also should’t put it where drafts are, because this also could result in sickness. Keep it up on on a table or stand where it won't be easy to knock over, but where people will be able to readily reach and view it.
   Make sure they have a good soft bedding of wood shavings or prepared litter. Corncob bedding obtained at pet stores works well as do beddings made of recycled paper and cardboard. Wood beddings provided by most major suppliers are simply kiln dried natural wood products. Generally it is best to not use beddings with additives. Chlorophyll bedding has chlorophyll added to give it a clean, fresh aroma. It is green and so not recommended for white small animals as it will discolor their fur. Wood shavings should be used in cages that are open with good ventilation, rather than enclosed containers. Cedar shavings should be avoided as it is more aromatic and there is concern by some that this or possibly the natural resins in cedar may be harmful. Some small animals can develop allergies due to the dust in moldy hay or in bedding.
   Mice are nest builders and will make nests from their bedding to sleep in and have babies in.
   For water, you can use a water bottle with a hanger that allows mice to get water whenever they are thirsty.
   Clean cages thoroughly with hot water at least once a week and change the bedding at least twice weekly.

Care and feeding:

   Mice need a completely balanced diet. This includes carbohydrates (whole oats, hay, stale bread), vegetables (lettuce, carrots, peas, etc), and protein (such as dog biscuits). An easy way to feed mice is to get the formulated mouse foods available at pet stores, which have all the vitamins and minerals that mice need.
   Mice do enjoy treats, and things such as fresh vegetables, sunflower seeds, cheese, jam, and fruit and grain bars from pet stores will be much appreciated. Feed them once a day in a small china or pottery dish and remove any uneaten fresh food at the end of the day. Clean the food dish thoroughly with hot water at least twice weekly.
   Mice also have constantly growing teeth, and so should be provided with something to chew on to keep them in good chewing condition. Hard nuts, such as acorns and walnuts work, and also flavored wood sticks from pet stores. Make sure that mice have a constant supply of water. Commercial water bottles are probably the best choice.

Social Behaviors:

   Mice are very sociable creatures and like to have company. One mouse can do fine as a pet, but they appreciate having friends of their own kind as well. Most mice get along fine with each other, but you should watch out putting males together (unless they grew up together), because they will tend to fight, especially if females are present. Usually females can be put together with no ill effects.
   Mice are great with children, but they should be kept away from the other pets of the house (dogs, cats, birds). They should also be kept away from other rodents such as rats, because rats are their natural predators.

Handling and Training:

   Mice generally become tame pretty quickly and are easy to handle and hold. The best way to pick them up is to grab the middle of their tail gently and then place them in the palm of your other hand. If they are very familiar with you, you can pick them up directly.
   Mice can be taught simple tricks, such as taking food from your fingers once they are comfortable with you and even retrieving treats from your pocket. With lots of patience, they can learn even more sophisticated things such as climbing ladders, walking "tightropes", racing, and traveling through mazes. Of course, one of the best ways to train them to do simple tricks is to reward them with a treat every time they do something right.

Activities - Exercise and Play:

   Nocturnal by nature, mice usually spend more time sleeping during the day than at night.
   They are extremely active and love to exercise and play. Exercise wheels are great for mice because they will occupy their time and keep them healthy. You can purchase or make tubes, ladders, and climbing blocks also.
   Mice also like to chew. Not only is this beneficial to keep their always growing teeth trimmed down, it is a favorite activity. Be sure they have plenty of chews, sticks and twigs.
   They also like to hide, so giving them cardboard boxes or nest boxes will give them a place to go when they want to sleep. Of course they will probably also chew up their boxes, so be sure to replace them from time to time.
   Mice will spend quite a bit of their time sleeping!

Breeding/Reproduction:

   If you are planning on breeding your mice, then you should get some nesting material to put in one corner of the cage. This can usually consist of something like grass or hay. You should have one male in the cage - no more! If there is more than one male mouse in a cage, then they tend to fight. There can be as many females as you like as they always get along with each other and will actually help take care of all the babies, not just their own.
   Female mice reach sexual maturity at about 6 weeks old, and males take a week or two longer. Females can have up to 15 litters a year, and can become pregnant within 24 hours after giving birth. So if you don't want more babies immediately after the first litter, it can be a good idea to remove the males. However, males can be kept with the females after the babies are born as they will not harm the young (and often actually help to babysit!).
   When baby mice are born they are deaf, naked, and blind. Within two weeks the babies will look just like their parents, just smaller. They may be weaned in approximately five to six weeks.

Ailments/Treatments:

   Mice are hardy resilient animals and rarely get sick. However, if not taken care of properly they can become ill. Most ailments are preventable simply from taking proper care of the animal.
   Signs that your mouse is sick include such things as not eating/losing weight, dull coat, runny eyes and nose, and huddling in a corner not appearing active. In general, if you notice your mouse is sick make sure to completely clean and disinfect the cage and change the bedding. Make sure it has plenty of food and water and isn't in drafts or damp conditions.
      Respiratory Infections/pneumonia: The indications that your mouse has a respiratory infection or even pneumonia are runny nose, lack of appetite, inactivity, weight los,and labored breathing. Respiratory Infections are generally caused from being in drafts and/or damp bedding. Make sure he is taken out of drafts and the cage is completely clean and dry, and place a dry cloth over the cage. Pneumonia will require an antibiotic therapy, and possibly a visit to a veterinarian.
      Asthma: This is usually attributed to an allergic reaction to dust, especially the dust of moldy hay. Provide a clean dry environment, and always replace damp hay and beddings.
      Fits: Sometimes a mouse is prone to fits, where it dashes around in circles until it falls down exhausted. There is no apparent reason for this and no known treatment.
      Diarrhea: If your mouse has watery droppings and appears to have diarrhea, then the cause is most likely from having too many fresh greens and fruits. The simple remedy to this is to remove them completely and not feed the fresh foods at all for a few days until he appears to be getting better. Then slowly re-introduce fresh food every few days.
      Mites/lice/parasites: Generally dirty conditions may provide breeding places for these types of pests so make sure and provide a dry, clean environment. Completely clean and disinfect the cage. Mites are especially harmful to mice and will cause a loss of fur and encrustation of the skin. Many blood sucking parasites can be eliminated with special powders available from a veterinarian or pet store.
      Skin Diseases: These are fungal diseases where there are small areas of hair loss and scalyness. Generally this condition is contracted from children who have ringworm. It is best to go to a veterinarian for this.
      Ear Infections: Often indicated by a mouse walking in circles or with its head tilted. This is usually caused by an inner ear infection or by parasites. A drop of mineral oil on a cotton swab will work to wipe the ear and may provide some relief. See a veterinarian to determine the cause and for treatment.
      Cancer(tumors): The most common form of cancer is mammary tumors. These are generally attributed to old age or viral infections. Keep your pet as comfortable as possible and provide the best nutrition possible.

Availability/Purchasing your Mouse:

   Pet mice are readily available.
   When purchasing your mouse, you should look for an overall healthy appearance and alertness. It should have a long body and clean head, smooth and not bumpy, and should arch a little over the loins. The fur should be sleek and smooth. It should have large bold eyes and ears that stand erect and be scoop shaped. The tail should be as long as the body, wide at the base and tapering to the end with no kinks.


Lastest Comments on Pet Mouse

Sophie - 2012-05-21
Remember that while males should live on their own (they'll fight with other boys, and you don't want them to breed with females), girls absolutely have to be kept in groups of two or more - you can't provide that attention unless you live in her cage.

Reply
Yvette G - 2012-05-14
My 13 year old son received a Mouse as a gift. We never had a Mouse before. I took my son to Pet Smart $150 later we have a very happy mouse. The sad part is my son does not know how to pick up and hold his new little mouse. My son catches lizards and Bees all day, he just does not want to hurt her. Can't anyone 'PLEASE HELP'?
Thank you,

  • Imogen - 2012-05-15
    Take your son to a quiet room well away from other pets if you have any more, and sit down carefully. Don't make any sudden movements or sounds while near your mouse because it'll scare it. You can scoop your mouse up gently in your hands, but don't squeeze too hard. This will scare and possibly hurt it. Or you can pick your mouse up by the base of the tail, NOT the end!! He shouldn't be nervous about picking the mouse up, he just needs to make sure he does it right so he doesn't scare or harm the little mouse. They get scared easily because they're so small. Try to pick your mouse up carefully often, and when your mouse is very tame it might walk right into your hand with a treat on it! I was nervous about holding mine on the first few days, but I'm sure your son will get used to it. Hope this helps! Research it or look in books about caring for mice if you're still unsure. Best of luck! x
  • Charlie Roche - 2012-05-14
    I can understand where your son would be nervous about picking up the mouse - just a little nervous. Easiest way is to take the mouse into a small room such as the bathroom or even the bathtub or shower - Just any area that is small and so the mouse can't get loose in the house and have it take you 3 hours to catch him. Have your son sit down on the floor with a towel in his lap (not slippery) and place a treat on the towel or in your sons hand such as piece of cheese and let the mouse come to your son. Then your son can pet him just a little. Then tell your son to just hold his hand under the mouse and pick him up. If your swon gets nervous - your sons lap and towel will cushion if there is a slip.
  • Sophie - 2012-05-21
    I agree with the other replies, but I'd like to add that treats can be really helpful for making friends with a shy mouse. Start by finding out what your mouses favorite treat is (Cheerios and sunflower seeds are usually a hit - just put them in your mouses food dish). Then, you can put a little treat in your palm and put your hand in the mouses cage. Pretty soon, the mouse with come out to nibble on the treat!

    It won't take long before the mouse with come out of the cage for the treat, and eventually you can stop giving treats and just kisses (but it's nice to occasionally give a treat).
Reply
Immie - 2012-05-11
My mice Milly and Poppy are really fussy eaters. They'll only eat the foods they love and never eat the healthier things. They love sunflower seeds and sometimes I give them two each in one day-usually one per day. And a big handful of food they love and I shouldn't. How can I make their diet healthier for them and how often for the unhealthier mouse food? Also, please could I have some advice on how to get them to eat some healthy things? I'm worried about them putting on weight. They're not fat now but if this continues they're sure to get fat. One of them's old and one of them's young. What can I do?

  • Charlie Roche - 2012-05-12
    Obviously they are going to eat more of the healthier items if you stop feeding them the unhealthier 'treats'. I would just make up your mind to feed them their regular healthier foods from now on and limit the treats to 1/2 teaspoon or less before bedtime.
  • Immie - 2012-05-13
    Ok thank you
Reply
Anonymous - 2012-04-20
This morning when I went to my mouse cage I saw one of them sneezing. I think it was sneezing and she wouldn't stop it. Could this be a cold? She's quite old now so it might be old age. I'm wondering what to do and how to make her better?

  • Charlie Roche - 2012-04-20
    Could be age, cold, allergies or upper repiratory. In any case it will help to keep her wrm. Place a heating pad wrapped in a towel on low under half the enclosure so she can get as warm as she wants. or you can put a light bulb or heat lamp over half the enclosure so again she can get as warm as she wants. If you have changed to different bedding - then change back cuz she might be allergic. If it is upper respiratory - then you would probably do best by getting an antibiotic.
  • Anonymous - 2012-04-20
    Ok thank you for the advice.
Reply
josh - 2012-05-08
I was given a mouse at work and I got a second one and I want teach them tricks ?

  • Clarice Brough - 2012-05-08
    Cheerios make a good snack to teach treats with. Good luck with your training!
Reply
jess - 2012-03-26
My boyfriend and I have 14 mice. One of our mice is starting to lose hair around her eyes, nose, and ears. She also has scabs in her ears. Shes still active and eating and playing with her friend. And that one is not showing any of the same signs. Could it be mites or some thing else?

  • Charlie Roche - 2012-03-27
    Well, she can't create scabs in her ears by herself. Someone is overly washing her or chewing on her. Another mouse possibly. Mites, I would think that all the mice would have them then. Why don't you try and separate her out for a week and see if she starts to heal - thenyou know some other mouse might be over zealous in cleaning her.
  • Imogen - 2012-03-27
    Hi Jess, it sounds like it could be mites. Or it could be ringworm, or something else. If she is still eating and active like you say, I wouldn't worry. She is obviously not in that much pain or she wouldn't still be doing the things she usually does. If it isn't mites, it could be a skin condition or disease. My mouse had that which was basically just a big scab that was bleeding all the time. I had to have her put down sadly. Perhaps buy mite spray from pet stores, or powder. Rub that in to your mouse every day for a few days and see if you see any improvement. If not, seperate the mouse from it's friend for a day or two and watch closely. If it doesn't get any better and possibly worse, I'd take her to the vet. Good luck! I hope your mouse gets better. Don't worry!
Reply

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May 25, 2012, 9:46 am