|
Gouldian FinchLady Gouldian Family: Estrildidae
The Gouldian Finches or Lady Gouldians are thought by many to be one of the most beautiful of the finches and are some of the most colorful birds.Though the Gouldian Finches are not extremely difficult birds to keep, they are rather expensive and are generally kept by more experienced bird keepers. Gouldian Finches are also not too difficult to breed and will breed well in colonies or as pairs in cages. To learn to care for this bird, a beginner could start with the Zebra Finch. They are much less expensive and have very similar environment requirements and many of the same behaviors. For more information about the care of Finches see:
|
![]() |
Description:
Gouldian Finches are 5.5" - 6"(14 -15 cm) with
the females being a bit smaller. The males are the more colorful. The
females are a bit duller, especially less intense in the breast color.
Normal males have purple breasts, yellow bellies, and green bodies. The
black-headed Gouldian is the most common in the wild, but about one out
of four will have a red head and on a rare occasion, a yellow head. Breeders
have developed a variety of color mutations including the white breasted,
yellow-headed, rose breasted, blue breasted, blue bodied, and white bodied.
The variations continue to grow.
Distribution:
Gouldian Finches are found in Queensland and Northern and
Northwest Australia.
Care and Feeding:
Fresh food and water must be provided daily.
A good finch seed mix will provide
their everyday need of grass seeds and millets and is readily available
at a pet store.
They will need a good supply of protein,
especially when they are molting or egg laying. In a treat cup you can
occasionally offer supplements of diced hard boiled eggs, other egg foods,
and mealworms. Seed moistened with cod liver oil and powdered with yeast
will provide a high fat protein and vitamin D.
In a separate cup supply green foods such as lettuce, spinach, celery tops, and chickweed. Finch treats of
seed with honey, fruits and vegetables are fun for your bird too, as well
as nutritious!
Grit with charcoal is essential
to aid in digestion and it contains valuable minerals and trace elements.
Grit should be provided in a special cup or sprinkled over the bottom
of the cage floor. Provide a cuttlebone because the calcium it provides
will give your bird a firm beak, strong eggshells when breeding, and will
help prevent egg binding. The lime in the cuttlebone also aids in digestion.
Give your Gouldian Finch a bath daily or as often as possible. A bath dish that is 1" deep with a 1/2"
of water, or a clip on bath house is very important as they love to bathe.
Their nails may occasionally need
to be trimmed, but be careful never to clip into the vein as the bird
can quickly bleed to death. Bird nail trimmers and styptic powder to stop
the bleeding are available at pet shops.
Housing:
Gouldian Finches have a great need for movement.
A cage with a good height as well as horizontal
space is important. A minimum of 24" (60 cm) in height (necessary
because they fly up when first taking off) and at least 28" (70
cm) long. Gouldians must to be kept in a heated area as they cannot
tolerate cold, any dampness or drafts. Always keep
the bird area above 55° F, though they will do much better if the
temperature is kept at 77°
F or warmer. Place the cage where it is well ventilated and against a
wall at eye level. The cage should have good lighting but be away from
doors and windows where direct exposure to sunlight can make it overly
warm.
Provide two or three good softwood perches about 3/8"
to 3/4" in diameter. Tree branches of a similar size also make good
perches and will help to wear the claws down naturally. Provide separate
dishes for food, water, treats, and grit. Place paper on the cage bottom
that can be sprinkled with grit, or use a grit paper.
Gouldian Finches also do very well in aviaries
or bird rooms. In an outdoor aviary they need protection
from wind and rain, a covered flight is best. The screening should be
3/8" square mesh. Dishes for food, water, grit and bathing water
must be included along with perches and a wide variety of nests. Gouldian
Finches may roost in nest boxes even when they are not breeding. Plants
that are not poisonous, such as fruit trees, privet, forsythia, and honeysuckle
bushes will make the space more enjoyable for the finches.
Maintenance:
Although finches require very little time, a clean environment
as well as fresh food and water daily is a must to prevent disease and
illness. The basic cage care includes daily
cleaning of the water and food dishes. Every two to three days change
the paper on the bottom of the cage and sprinkle it with about 1/8"
of fresh grit. Weekly wash and dry the entire cage, including the perches.
Social Behaviors:
Gouldian Finches are social and live in large groups all
year long in the wild. They are friendly with other finches and do well
when kept in groups. If you wish to mix bird types, they do very well
in aviaries with Zebra Finches and Society Finches.
Handling/Training:
Finches are simply enjoyed for their antics and play rather
than training. When you need to handle your finch to examine it or clip
it's nails, place your palm on it's back and wrap your fingers around
the bird with your thumb and forefinger on either side of it's head.
Activities:
Gouldian Finches are active and very energetic breeders.
They must be kept active to remain healthy.
Breeding/Reproduction:
Gouldian Finches breed readily both in colonies and as a
pair in a cage. Provide them with either open or covered nests.
Nest boxes, larger than those used for Zebra or Society Finches, should
be about 6"x 6"x 6" (15 x 15 x 15 cm) and mounted as high
as possible. Both birds will build the nest and they will need nesting
materials such as soft hay, sisal, and coconut fiber. Incandescent lighting
tends to produce mostly males, while full-spectrum lighting helps produce
a more equal number of males to females.
Provide soaked seed, egg foods and spray millet when breeding.
Gouldian Finches need more protein than other finches to stay healthy
and it is especially important when the female is laying eggs.
Females are prone to egg binding. This is thought to be caused
by breeding too young, temperatures too low, or not in good shape. Some
pairs will often keep breeding to exhaustion. They must be prevented from
constant breeding in order to keep them healthy.
The female will lay a clutch of 4 to 8 eggs and they will
hatch in 14 to 15 days. The young leave the nest about 18 to 21 days after
they hatch and in 6 to 8 weeks will be on their own, after their first
molt. Their adult plumage comes in between 6 and 12 months.
Potential Problems:
Gouldian Finches, though not to hard to keep, are difficult
to acclimate and will sometimes die for no apparent reason. They will
suffer from metabolic problems if they don't get enough exercise, and
can become ill after even a very short exposure to cold. Finches are fairly
hardy birds and almost all illnesses can be traced to improper diet, dirty
cages, and drafts. A balanced diet, being kept warm, and plenty of exercise
will prevent most illnesses. Know your birds and watch for any changes
as indications of illness.
Some signs of illness to be aware
of are droppings that are not black and white, feathers that are fluffed
and the bird tucks it's head under it's wing, lack of appetite, wheezing,
and acting feeble and run down.
Some of the common illnesses and injuries your finch could contract are broken wings or legs, cuts and open wounds,
overgrown beaks and nails, ingrown feathers, feather picking, metabolic
problems from lack of exercise, weight loss, heat stroke, shock, concussion,
egg binding, diarrhea, mites, colds, baldness, scaly legs, sore eyes,
tumors, constipation, and diarrhea.
First you can try and isolate the bird in a hospital cage
where you cover all but the front of the cage and add a light bulb or
heating pad to keep the interior of the cage at a constant temperature
of 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove all perches and put food and water dishes
on the floor. If you don't see improvements within a few hours, take the
bird to an avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Availability:
Gouldian Finches have been quite expensive due to a high
demand and the fact that they are captive bred. However, there are indications
that there are now larger quantities being bred and that prices are reducing.
The white-breasted and blue mutations are probably in the highest demand.
| Sponsored Links |
|---|
Comments from people who have kept this pet:
I purchased two Gouldians, a yellow head and a red head. I was told when I purchased them that they were male and female, the redhead being the female. After much reading and research I was 99.9% sure she was a he. :) Then one day I finally heard "her" sing confirming my thoughts... I decided to then purchase a female for them. She is a blackhead and gets along nicely with my yellowhead but my redhead can't leave her alone. I wonder if he wants to mate with her or if he had created such a bond with the yellowhead that he doesn't like the new company. Anyways, today I saw the "mellow" yellowhead try to mate with her, she didn't let him. Her beak hasn't turned black yet so I am guessing she is not ready. I currently have them eating a nice blend of finch seed and millet. I also supply them with eggfood and this blue stuff that provides them with minerals. I give them fresh romaine lettuce everyday. I have them in a large cage in a closed in patio. I wonder how long it will take them to breed, I have only had her for a week.
I keep mine outside. Temp. ranges from 28 to 100+ degrees F. They have dirt and water baths and eat dry and sprouted food. They breed like cockroaches in a compartmented aviary of 550 cubic feet, with full sun and wind available. They die of old age or ants (being eaten by). I don't band or breed them, they take care of that for themselves, the breeding that is. Good luck.
I have kept gouldian finches for a little over a year here in Southern Louisiana. They are kept indoors in a spare bedroom where I keep the tempature between 75 to 80 degrees. The air conditioner vent is kept closed during the summer months and left open in winter to allow warm air in the winter. At the moment (June) they are caring for their young which are about 1 week old. This will be the first time my goulds have babies. I am anxious to see what colors the babies will be. Both my goulds have RH BP GB
Greetings from the low lands, Flanders, Belgium. I'm a natural system cold breeder of gouldians for almost 30years, and yearly breeding with about 25 up to 35 couples. Average INDOOR temperatures are of 9 to 14°C with high hygro values of 75% up to even 95% during winter breeding, from October till medio March. The resulting outcome is of approximately 150 young birds each year. I've enabled my gouldians to go through a purifying process of severe natural selection without inbreeding, without fostering or without any form of classical medication. Indoor climate conditions are monitored and readjusted if needed. In the early years the mortality rate during moulting used to be as high as 80%. Today figures are reversed with mortality rate still being 20% each moulting season. Those 80% gouldians which today remain after moulting at severe climate conditions, prove to be not the weakest. On establishing the birds'health and self-reproductivity today, I can say that the results are as expected, and yet stunning. Even more so to visitors from f.i. Japan or South Africa who are impressed not only by the birds' stamina, but more so by the measurements of the darwinistically domesticated gouldians; their average weights being 18 up to 22grams. Carrying round heads, broad breasts & straight backs, and furthermore sitting straight up on the perch displaying an angle of about 60°. These gouldians are of the LILY MAJOR TYPE as it is known with the Dutch Specialised Club of Natural Gould breeding. My point is: gouldians are not the weaklings some people name them to be. In most cases it is man who makes the gouldian weak. Please tell it further. Lectures, technical discourses & presentations on this topic are possible in Dutch, French & English. Congratulations to the builders of this site; more gould lovers should appreciate your mentality. Ivan W.J. Lievens Oudenaardse Steenweg 407
I once had a male Gouldian Finch named "Johnny". When I put some shredded paper in his cage, he began "rolling" his cage. He also liked to drape the paper everywhere, even from the top of his swing, and it was the funniest sight! I loved his dance. When he would see himself in the mirror he would begin jumping up and down in place while he sang. Finally, I bought him a mate we named "Frankie". These two birds were very cute together, especially when they slept side by side. Later I provided a nest and Frankie layed eggs. My family was so excited that we were going to have babies! Sadly, one morning I woke up to find Johnny lying dead on the eggs. I wish I knew what happened.
I live in Northern California and have been raising Gouldians for about 10 years. I have bred indoors in single pair cages and outdoors in open flights. I keep all of my Goulds in NON heated environments. The indoor birds have windows open allowing for temperature changes in the summer and winter. My birds easily tolerate 40 degree nights in the winter and 105 degree days in the summer. I do not provide heat lamps outdoors either. I only wrap the outdoor aviary in plastic during winter to keep out strong weather and wind. A variation in temperature is necessary for a strong healthy bird. Birds raised in temperate climates with minimal temperature changes tend to be frail when exposed to change. This leads to deaths when birds are sold to folks that do not mirror the conditions in the temperate environment. See research completed by Robert Black entitled "hot house finches" for further details. Donna Gary
Author: Clarice Brough, CAS
[Home] [Newsfeed]
[Saltwater Aquariums]
[Reef Aquariums]
[Freshwater Aquariums]
[Cats]