 |
Keyhole AngelfishTibicen Angelfish, Melas AngelfishFamily: Pomacanthidae Centropyge tibicenPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David BroughLatest Reader Comment - See More My Keyhole Angel eats anything, is always busy zubbing around the tank, and certainly not shy. Chocolate Starfish They call this a Keyhole Angelfish because of the white spot that looks just like a "keyhole"!Keyhole Angelfish Contents The blue-black colored Keyhole Angelfish Centropyge tibicen is the largest species of dwarf angelfish recorded to date. Though these dwarf Angelfish are often less than 4.7" (12 cm), they can reach an impressive 7.5” (19 cm). They are also called the Tibicen Angelfish and Melas Angelfish. The overall coloration of the Keyhole Angelfish is a dark blue-black with a contrasting white “keyhole” patch on the sides. They have yellow pectoral and anal fins below, and a blue margin edging the tail fin. Though not as vibrantly colored as many of the other pygmy angels, this clever black/white contrast with the yellow and blue accents, makes it a striking attraction in the tank. The Keyhole Angelfish is best in a "fish only with live rock" aquarium (FOWLR). In the wild they feed mostly on algae, but also some crustaceans. They need quite a bit of algae to graze on daily, along with several feedings a day. A decent sized tank, at least 55-60 gallons, with algae growing on live rock is recommended. A tank that is 100 gallons or more will be needed for a pair. Within the tank, offer plenty of hiding spaces and algae growth to forage on within the. These dwarf angels are semi-aggressive. Although initially secretive, once they become established they will bully fish that are similar in shape, size, or eating behavior. They will also be aggressive towards other Centropyge species as well as other fish added to the tank after it. Those with beloved reef tanks have to sit this dwarf out, since it will dine on most of your corals. It may leave mushrooms alone, but even that is not ruled out. When buying a Keyhole Angelfish, look for one that is alert and actively looking for food. They should look well fed and like other dwarf angelfish, they should be quick to hide, yet curious enough to come right back out to size you up. Be cautious of dwarf angelfish from the Philippines. Poor capturing practices of some fishes, not allowing the fish to decompress as they are taken from the depths to shallower waters, can result in eventual death for up to about a month. Dwarf angelfish from Marshall and Christmas Islands, as well as any around Australia, seem to have consistently healthy stock. Keyhole Angelfish are born female and can be paired according to size. The larger fish becomes male, so creating a pair may be possible by buying one large and one small Keyhole Angelfish. Within a few months they hopefully they will assume their roles as male and female, with some males showing a more bluish black cast. For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see: |
|
Habitat: Distribution / Background
The Keyhole Angelfish Centropyge tibicen was described by Cuvier in 1831. This pygmy angel is a member of the Pomacanthidae family, of the genus Centropyge , which currently has over 33 species. It is on the IUCN Red List as Least Concerned (LC) and has a stable population trend. Other common names they are known by are Tibicen Angelfish and Melas Angelfish.
The Keyhole Angelfish inhabit the Western Pacific Ocean and the Eastern Indian Ocean. They are found in areas of Christmas Island to Fiji then northward to the southern part of Japan.and southward to the Scott Reef, the Eastern Indian Ocean, and Lord Howe Island.
The Keyhole Angelfish are found alone or in harems of 3-7 individuals. They inhabit mixed coral and rubble areas of lagoons and seaward reefs, feeding primarily on algae and some and crustaceans. The depths they are found as adults is from 13 to 180 feet (4 to 55 m).
- Scientific Name: Centropyge tibicen
- Social Grouping: Pairs - It is seen alone or in harems of three to seven individuals.
- IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - Stable population.
The Keyhole Angelfish has the typical shape for a dwarf species, having a small elongated oval shaped body with rounded fins. This dwarf angelfish ranges in overall color from dark bluish black to black. It has a vertical white oval blotch on the upper back below the dorsal fin toward the front, giving it rise to its common name.
The anal fin can be all black, or the part closest to the body being black with the bottom half being white or yellow, and having a blue or white thin line dividing the halves. There can also be a thin blue line at the outer edge of the dorsal and anal fin in some specimens. The pelvic fins have different intensity levels of yellow, which seems to coincide with the anal fin coloration. The pectoral fins are slightly transparent. As a juvenile the Keyhole Angelfish are black with a white bar which then shrinks to a 'keyhole' type blotch.
This dwarf angel, though often less than 4.7" (12 cm), can grow to a maximum length of 7.5” (19 cm). The larger specimens are from the waters of the Lord Howe Island. Keyhole Angelfish reportedly can live up to 6 years in the wild. Interestingly, a golden specimen (xanthic) has been reported. This specimen was a light orange color on the front half of the body and pinkish white on the back half. The "keyhole" spot was a lighter white and there was a yellow border on the anal fin.
- Maximum Size: 7.5 inches (19.05 cm) - They are often less than 4.7" (12 cm). The larger specimens are from the waters of the Lord Howe Island.
- Lifespan: 6 years - It's reported that they can live up to 6 years in the wild.
The Keyhole Angelfish are moderately hardy and suggested for an intermediate marine aquarist. They can be easy to moderate to care for if you are careful to get a healthy individual who is alert, eating, and curious.
They need a mature tank that is minimum of 55 gallons (208 l) with plenty of algae growth. Provide rock work with multiple places to hide so they will feel secure enough to come out. Do not let pH drop below 8.0 and nitrates need to be very low. Any nitrites can be lethal.
- Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy - They can be easy to moderate to care for if you are careful to get a healthy individual who is alert, eating, and curious.
- Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
The Keyhole Angelfish is an omnivore. In the wild their diet mainly consists of algae along with some crustaceans. They need algae naturally growing in the tank to be healthy. Feeding them several times a day and offering a variety of good foods is important even with amply algae in the tank. These include prepared foods with marine algae, spirulina enriched foods, frozen mysid shrimp, brine shrimp, and meaty crustaceans such as shaved shrimp and clams. There are several good commercial foods available including Formula II and Angel Formula.
- Diet Type: Omnivore - Feeds primarily on algae along with some crustaceans.
- Flake Food: Yes - Provide flakes with spirulina.
- Tablet Pellet: Yes
- Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
- Vegetable Food: Most of Diet - They feed primarily on algae.
- Meaty Food: Some of Diet - Though leaning more towards algae consumption, they will consume some proteins.
- Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day
The Keyhole Angelfish is moderately difficult to keep. Water quality and tank size are important. Keep in mind these angelfish are constant grazers and like tangs, lots of food in equals a lot of bio load, so water quality must be monitored. They need a pH of at least 8.0, and water changes that do not include scrubbing all the algae off of the rock. When performing your water changes, one time you can clean the left side of the tank by dismantling and vacuuming the rock and sand. During the next water change, clean the other side the same way.
Water changes of 30% a month, or 15% every 2 weeks is optimal in keeping nitrates lower. Keeping up with your water testing will tell you when your tank needs a water change, as these are just guidelines.
- Water Changes: Bi-weekly - Water changes of 15% every 2 weeks, or 30% a month, is optimal in keeping nitrates lower.
They will do well in a typical reef setting with live rock and plenty of places to hide. The aquarium needs to be at least 6 months old or more to provide all the necessary algae to feed your angelfish. It is helpful ho have areas of rubble for the algae to grow on. This will aid in feeding them their needed vegetables and will also help make them feel secure. A minimum of 55 gallons is needed for one fish and 100 gallons or more for a mated pair. Even juveniles need an established tank that is at least 55 gallons. Provide water parameters of: 72-82° F, pH 8.0-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025. It is best to introduce the Keyhole Angelfish while young, and as the last addition to an established tank.
- Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - A tank of at least 55 gallons with plenty of algae growth for a single specimen, and 100 gallons (378 l) or more for a pair.
- Suitable for Nano Tank: No
- Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places
- Substrate Type: Any
- Lighting Needs: Any
- Temperature: 72.0 - 82.0° F (22.2 - 27.8° C)
- Specific gravity: 1.020-1.025 SG - Angelfish in general do not do well in the long run under 1.023.
- Range ph: 8.0-8.4 - Angelfish will deteriorate quickly under 8.0.
- Brackish: No
- Water Movement: Any - They like some areas of strong and weak movement. A weaker movement would be appreciated along the bottom for feeding.
- Water Region: Bottom - They will also inhabit mid level areas of the tank.
The Keyhole Angelfish, like other members of this genus, is solitary and stays close to shelter. It is aggressive toward other fish in the same genus so should be kept alone in a 55 gallon tank. They can be kept as a male/female pair or small harem in a larger aquarium that is 100 gallons or more. Two males will fight to the death.
Once established, these pygmy angels are aggressive toward fish that are similar in shape, size, or eating behavior. If they are introduced last into a larger tank, they should get along with other tank mates that are of different size and shape. They do not get along with other dwarf angels. Reef tanks are out as they will nip corals, clams, and other sessile invertebrates.
- Venomous: No
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Male/Female pairs or small harems in tanks over 100 gallons (378 l).
- Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Threat
- Semi-Aggressive (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Monitor - Will harass smaller fish like clowns and anthias.
- Aggressive (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Safe
- Large Semi-Aggressive (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Monitor - Aggressive toward fish that are similar in shape, size, or eating behavior.
- Large Aggressive, Predatory (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Monitor - Safe unless the fish is large enough to eat the Keyhole Angelfish.
- Slow Swimmers & Eaters (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat
- Anemones: Threat
- Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Threat
- LPS corals: Threat
- SPS corals: Threat
- Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Threat
- Leather Corals: Threat
- Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Monitor - May nip soft corals.
- Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Monitor - May pick at appendages if not well fed.
- Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Threat
- Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
- Starfish: Threat
- Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Threat
- Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat - Will nip at clam mantles.
- Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Threat
Female Keyhole Angelfish are usually black overall, while the males tend to be dark blue.
Female - Keyhole Angelfish
|
All Centropyge are born as female, as they grow, the larger and more dominant fish will become male and if the male dies, the angelfish next in line in the hierarchy will turn to male. Putting a larger and smaller fish together is the best way to get a pair, possibly in about 2 -3 months time.
As of yet the Keyhole Angelfish have not been bred in captivity. In the wild, they are broadcast spawners, releasing eggs and sperm simultaneously at dusk. They dance then rise into the water column and release their eggs and sperm near the top of the water.
It has been observed that all Centropyge dwarf angelfish have a similar spawning routine. Centropyge spawning typically consists of the male and female circling each other upon meeting, followed by the male making grunting noises. The male will then swim upwards off the bottom, and hover, tilting his body toward her at a 45 to 90 degree angle.
If she is ready to spawn, the female will join the male and both will soar together. When the soaring behavior is complete, this varies between dwarf angelfish species, the male will nuzzle her belly for up to 18 seconds, followed by the male flickering his pectoral fins and opening and closing his mouth. Suddenly, they are belly to belly, releasing gametes, producing fertilized eggs. These eggs are on their own and will not be protected by either parent. The pair will then rush back to the sea bottom with the male of this species making a rattling sound!
- Ease of Breeding: Difficult
Providing a dwarf angelfish with plenty of places to hide and clean water is the best way to prevent illness. Calm fish are healthy fish. If not stressed, they will have a stronger immune system to prevent infections. Like other saltwater angelfish, dwarf angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Dwarf angelfish are prone to crypt which is the most common disease. Under stress they can also contract Brooklynella, which is a common clownfish disease that kills quickly, and can contract Oodinium (Amyloodinium) infections as well.
Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.
The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.
Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:
-
Parasitic diseases
Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.-
Treatment of parasites
For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone.
The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief, but of course
-
Treatment of parasites
-
Bacterial Diseases
As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.-
Treatment of bacterial diseases
Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
-
Treatment of bacterial diseases
-
Fungal Diseases
Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.-
Treatment of fungal diseases
Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
-
Treatment of fungal diseases
-
Physical Ailments
Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..-
Treatment for physical ailments
Look for and remove bully fish.
Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melefix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.
-
Treatment for physical ailments
The Keyhole Angelfish is usually available online and in stores, and is moderately priced.
- Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
- Centropyge tibicen Keyhole angelfish, Fishbase
- Centropyge tibicen, IUNC Red List, International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources
- Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
- Scott W. Michael, Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species, T.F.H Publications inc., 1999
- Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
- Roger Steene, Gerald R. Allen, Hans A. Baensch, Butterfly and Angelfishes of the World, Volume 1, John Wiley & Sons, 1980
- Bob Goemans, Centropyge tibicen, Keyhole Angelfish, Saltcorner.com
 |
 |
 |
 |
 
|
|||||
|
International Index Pages |
|||||
| Join Dr. Jungle on Facebook - People Talking About Their Pets | |||||