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Emperor Angelfish

Imperator Angelfish, Imperial Angelfish

Family: PomacanthidaeEmperor Angelfish (adult), Pomacanthus imperator also known as Imperator Angelfish or Imperial AngelfishPomacanthus imperatorPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough
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I noticed a lot of people have posted that they have had their emperor angel for years and have had no signs of color change. I bought mine about a year ago as a... (more)  Dustin Harders

   The handsome Emperor Angelfish is the best known of all the saltwater angelfish!

   The exotic Emperor Angelfish Pomacanthus imperator, also called the Imperator Angelfish or Imperial Angelfish, is one of the most recognized angelfish in the sea. It is unusually beautiful both as a juvenile and as an adult. Adults are truly regal, being deep bodied and slightly elongated with yellow and royal blue horizontal lines streaming across their frame. The pretty juveniles are black with light blue and white curved stripes and a honeycomb pattern on the top and bottom fin and tail made up of black spots edged in blue.

   In the aquarium the Imperator Angelfish are semi-aggressive, though they can be a good community fish with the proper tank mates, especially when young. Tank mates like cardinalfish, other large angelfish, clownfish, and small peaceful fish will more than likely be harassed by an adult Imperial Angelfish. Adding the Imperator Angelfish last is the best choice due to their territorial behavior. Make sure the tank is at least 6 months old, and has plenty of live rock for it to graze on. Several hiding areas will help it feels secure, so shape rocks into cave type formations as places of refuge and comfort.

   The best sized Emperor Angelfish to obtain for adjusting to life in a captive environment is a juvenile 4" to 6" (10 -14 cm) in length. Make sure they are very curious and active in their environment. The size of these angels when they start to change color is from 3" to 5" (8 - 12 cm). The Imperator Angelfish will generally reach 12" (30 cm) in the aquarium. A large tank of at least 225 to 275 gallons (852 to 1041 l) is needed for a well developed and unstressed large Angelfish.

   In a reef tank the Imperator Angelfish will nip large polyp stony corals (LPS), anemones, zoanthids, clams and some soft corals. If you have a large tank with small polyp stony corals (SPS) and/or some noxious soft corals and the angel is well fed, they may leave them alone. Yet each Angelfish has its own idea of what "dinner" may be, and some may still pick at them.

Above is the adult coloration of the Emperor Angelfish . The juvenile is blue with white stripes, and looks similar to the Koran angelfish. (See the picture of the Koran angelfish)

For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see:
Marine Aquarium Basics: Guide to a Healthy Saltwater Aquarium


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Geographic Distribution
Pomacanthus imperator
Data provided by FishBase.org
  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Actinopterygii
  • Order: Perciformes
  • Family: Pomacanthidae

Habitat: Natural geographic location    The Emperor Angelfish Pomacanthus imperator, is also known as the Imperator Angelfish and Imperial Angelfish. It is from the Pomacanthidae family, and was first described by Bloch in 1787. It is found in the Indo Pacific Ocean from the Red Sea and East Africa to the Hawaiian, Line and Tuamoto Islands. They can then be found from Southern Japan then south to the Great Barrier Reef, New Caledonia and Austral Islands. They are absent from the Easter Island, Rapa and Marquesan Islands.

   Juveniles inhabit areas under ledges or in holes of semi-protected channels, outer reef flats and outer lagoon patch reefs. The juvenile and sub-adult Emperor Angelfish have been seen cleaning larger fish in the wild. Subadults can be found in reef front holes and in surge channels. Adults are found under ledges and caves where there is plentiful coral, in seaward reefs, channels or clear lagoons.

   Adults Imperial Angelfish like to pair up, unlike some of the other Pomacanthus. They are found at depths from 3 to 328 feet (1 to 100 m). Sponges, encrusting organisms and tunicates are their main food. As of yet, breeding in captivity is not possible and tank raising these angels has not been successful.

Status    The Pomacanthus imperator is on the IUCN Red List as Least Concern (LC), with a stable population

Description   The adult Emperor Angelfish or Imperator Angelfish are deep bodied and slightly elongated. They have yellow and blue horizontal lines throughout their body that start from just behind the gills to the area just before the tail fin which is yellow. Starting at the top of the dorsal fin to the anal fin, it is blue and can have some blue striping. The dorsal fin is trimmed in white. Emperor Angelfish, juvenile
Emperor Angelfish - juvenile Photo © Animal-World

   The mouth and snout area are white, which is sharply cut off by a black mask that covers the eyes. The mask is black, trimmed in blue. There is a yellow vertical bar that extends from the yellow in the head downward. It divides the black mask from a thicker vertical black band that starts about 1/4 of the way down the body and continues down into the pelvic fins. This black band is in the same area of vertical space as the pectoral fins and gills.

  Juvenile Emperor Angelfish are black with vertical lines in light blue and white on the face. Behind the gill area are 3 thicker white bands. The first is a curved band that starts from the dorsal fin to the anal fin, the second forms a "C" shape, and the third forms a white circle near the tail fin. In between these white bands are thinner light blue bands. The dorsal and anal fins have a honeycomb patterning that is black in the center and trimmed in light blue. The top dorsal fin has a white top edge.

Emperor Angelfish, sub-adult
Emperor Angelfish - sub adult Photo © Animal-World

   Sub-adult looks like the juvenile Emperor, except the tail fin starts to develop yellow in the patterning. Yellow vertical dashes start to appear on the body, blending into the juvenile pattern. The sub adult also becomes more deep bodied and rounder, like the adult.

   Don't confuse the Emperor Angelfish with the very similar looking juvenile Koran (Semicircle) Angelfish Pomacanthus semicirculatus. On a Koran juvenile, the very last white stripe makes a crude "C" shape that at times can form a circle. But the Imperator juvenile has a full circle within the "C" shape. The Imperator juvenile also has irregular light blue lined circles in the dorsal and anal fin, where the Koran does not.

Length/Diameter of fish    The Imperator Angelfish are deep bodied and can grow up to 15.7" (40 cm) in the wild, yet in captivity, they will generally only reach about 12" (30 cm).

Difficulty of Care   The Emperor Angelfish or Imperator Angelfish are considered moderately hard to advanced in difficulty because of the excellent water quality that is needed, along with a large tank to properly house this fish. If a tank of 225 gallons or more with numerous caves can be provided, this can lower stress levels.

   When obtaining your Emperor Angelfish, the best size for adjusting to life in a captive environment is 4" to 6" (10-14 cm) in length. Make sure they are very curious and active in their environment. Also, find out where the fish you are considering is from. Fish from the Indo-Pacific may not do well due to poor capturing practices from that area. Especially those from the Philippines and Indonesia.

   If an Emperor Angelfish is disoriented and excessively bright, that can be a sign that they are victims of cyanide and will die. Also, a gill count of over 80 a minute as they calmly swim around is a red flag. It is very important to have the LFS direct the fish into a container or bag to capture it, since nets can get snagged on their gill cover spines, causing injury which can lead to possible infection and subsequent death.

Foods and Feeding   Emperor Angelfish are omnivores, in the wild they eat a wide variety of sponges and encrusting organisms along with small amounts of algae, tunicates, hydroids, and bryozoans. It is important that you feed angelfish all kinds of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. Feed vegetable based foods as well as meaty foods like chopped squid, scallop, and shrimp. Prepared foods with marine sponge and tunicates are essential. Foods containing color enhancing qualities may be used as well. A good formula that can be made at home consists of mussels, shrimp, squid, and spinach. Feed 2 to 3 times a day in smaller amounts to keep water quality good.

Aquarium Care   In general, Pomacanthus angelfish are not as forgiving as many other fish when it comes to water quality. Water quality must be high for the Imperial Angelfish to prevent illness, which can lead to death. Water changes of 30% a month, or 15% every 2 weeks is optimal in keeping nitrates lower. If there are corals in the tank, then 20% every month, 10% every 2 weeks or 5% a week works great.

   A large tank is important for this large fish. Because it needs a lot of food, there is a large bio-load on the aquarium and a smaller tank will foul quickly. A suggested guideline is to keep up with your water testing, which will tell you when your tank needs a water change.

Aquarium Parameters
   These angels, like others, need a stable environment which is at least 6 months old. It is best to introduce it last as a young fish into an established tank, minimum size of 225 gallons will be needed for an adult. Imperial Angelfish, like others angels, enjoy large amounts of rock work to graze on and to hide in, so arrange them in a way that your angel can "hide" when needed.

  • Minimum Tank Size / Length: A minimum size of at least 225 to 275 gallons (852 to 1041 l) is needed for an adult, 125 gallons (473 liters) for a juvenile.
  • Marine Lighting: Any. While seen as brightly colored fish in books and online, it has been stated that they may end up in a more faded version if a juvenile coloration is acquired and raised in captivity. It is possible that this is due to the lack of lighting in a fish only tank. It may be that providing reef lighting as you would for corals, may help. A decent amount of lighting has also been observed to help other Pomacanthus from developing HLLE (Head and Lateral Line Erosion Disease).
  • Temperature: 72 - 82° F (22 - 28° C)
  • Specific gravity (Salinity): 1.023 to 1.025
  • Water Movement: No special requirements, it can tolerate a rather stronger flow but slow-moving water is preferable.
  • Water Region: They will spend time in all parts of the aquarium

Social Behaviors   They are found singly or in pairs in the wild. Generally peaceful in the aquarium but can be aggressive towards other Emperor Angelfish and other large angelfish species. They will harass smaller fish like gobies, clownfish and blennies. Because they establish territories that they will defend, they should be the last fish you introduce into the tank.

   In a reef environment they will eat at Large Polyp Stony Corals (LPS), most soft corals, Zoanthids, and Tridacnid clams. Use caution with Small Polyp Stony Corals (SPS), even SPS corals are not always safe from these coral carnivores. They may be a threat to small decorative shrimp as well.

Sex: Sexual differences   It has been stated that the blue in front of the eye mask is more blue in male Emperor Angels, and gray blue in females.

Breeding/Reproduction   The Emperor Angelfish pair will spawn once a year. In the Marshall Islands, they spawn August and September. Males will have 2 or more females in their harem, with each female having their own territory. It is possible, like other Pomacanthus, that they ascend in the water column, circle each other and simultaneously release their sperm and eggs at the pinnacle of their accent. The larvae float in a planktonic stage for a few weeks before turning into fry.

   See Breeding Marine Fish for a description of how they reproduce in the wild.

Fish Diseases   Emperor Angelfish, like other saltwater angelfish, are prone to any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Stress due to various reasons will cause illness, like inappropriate housing or tank mates to commotion outside the tank, will make the fish ill. The Imperator Angel is sensitive and can develop bacterial infections and internal and external parasites. Keeping them quarantined for at least 2 weeks is recommended.

   Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt) is the most common of disease, and is generally associated with marine tangs and angelfish. Symptoms of Marine Ich are constant scratching, culminating with lots of white dots. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen. One suggestion is putting your tank just at least 82°F (28°C) since that will prevent the parasite from completing its life cycle, which includes the attachment to fish. Several preparations are also available for this parasite.

   Seachem has awesome products for treating Marine Ick, Focus and Metronidazole. The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus). This combo is mixed with 1 Tablespoon of food and can be fed to the fish 3 times a day until symptoms are gone. This can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food. In combination, the higher temperature along with the food/medication combo, will provide timely relief.

   Diseases that saltwater angelfish are susceptible to:

Availability    The Emperor Angelfish or Imperator Angelfish is moderately easy to find online and in stores, but rather expensive

References

Author: Carrie McBirney, David Brough CFS


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Lastest Comments on Emperor Angelfish

Dustin Harders - 2009-05-07
I noticed a lot of people have posted that they have had their emperor angel for years and have had no signs of color change. I bought mine about a year ago as a juvenile and with in a few weeks noticed it start to change. Now almost a year later the change is almost complete. The only thing left is the black mask around the eyes. I don't know that I have done anything special or maybe I bought him right before he would have naturally started his change. I just thought this very interesting and maybe someone would know why mine changed when no one elses is.

Click For Replies (3)
  • laQrisha tyler - 2010-05-20
    well the anglefish can change colors true, due to the simple fact of how their environment is.
  • anthony nolan - 2010-07-24
    Hi Dustin, I've had my juvenile for about 2 1/2 yrs now and he started to change colour about 3 months ago, and seems to be continuing to change, his lower face is getting pale, lots of yellow streaks on the body, tail getting yellower by the day, eye mask getting dark. How long to go??? do you think he may go all the way?? I'm feeding him on frozen artemia and spinach soaked in vitamin fish oil.
    Any comments appreciated.
    I think you must have bought yours just before he would have changed as I assume they would need to be quite settled to start from a natural continuation

    Regards, Anthony
  • roydroll - 2011-04-28
    My emperor angelfish was eating my sting ray.
Reply
eddy - 2010-11-05
Hi I just bought my emperor angel last tuesday, currently she is in my holding tank together with my clown trigger fish which I just bought on the same day but besides the tank is a holding tank for new fish it is a quarantine tank as well where currently in the tank is a nasso tang which is sick with an ick, so I place all the fish together in the tank and put a copper medications for the nasso, I don't see any problem with the clown trigger and the emperor both are eating well with brine shrimp, flake, frozen shrimp and even algae and also the nasso has improved a lot, my concern is how long shall I hold the 3 fish in the tank before I place all of them in the display tank? But the emperor angel is an excellent fish I'm training her to eat from my finger which she tries to get closer every feeding time.

Click For Replies (1)
  • David Brough - 2011-03-23
    Depending on the temperature, ich will go through its entire life cycle. Higher temperatures speed this up, lower temp will slow it down. I believe about 78 degrees is average. So if there is no sign of ich, or other obvious problems of course, within two weeks, you should be okay.
Reply
sham - 2011-03-13
I bought an emperor adult angelfish, its not eating at all. Plz help .

Click For Replies (1)
  • David Brough - 2011-03-23
    Keep trying everything you can get your hands on. Especially brine shrimp and bloodworms (preferably live). Also try the frozen foods like angel formula and formula 1 (Ocean Nutrition products). They can go for several days or even weeks before eating especially if they were not fed by the retailer/wholesaler. The difficulty level of the fish is almost entirely based on whether they are easy to feed and what level of effort it takes to get them to eat. He/she should come around in a few days, I sure hope he does!
Reply
Patty&Bill - 2010-05-27
I just bought my first emperor angelfish today. Love it ..One question for whoever reads this, is it a sideways swimmer, cause I'm noticing lots of side swimming in her rather than up straight swimming. Please someone tell me it normal or should I take her back?

Click For Replies (1)
  • Anonymous - 2010-09-01
    Normal for up to 5 weeks in a new tank....
Reply
T Gaul - 2010-05-26
Has anyone tried to put a dwarf angel in a tank with the emperor? My tank is 100 gallon. Thanks for any assistance.

Reply
primo rosal - 2008-01-27
They say you can't have more than one angel at a time. Well, I do. You must punish the aggressor by separation out side the tank for 15 min., then rearange teritories. The emperor is the best angel in my opinion. primo rosal 01-27-08

Reply

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