Animal-World > Marine - Saltwater Fish > Marine Angelfish > Pygmy Angelfish

Pygmy Angelfish ~ Cherubfish

Cherubfish, Cherub Pygmy Angelfish, Pygmy Dwarf Angelfish

Family: PomacanthidaeCentropyge argiPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Greg Rothschild

The Cherub Pygmy Angelfish is a very dynamic little angel, in both looks and action!

The Cherubfish or Pygmy Angelfish Centropyge argi are beautiful little fish. This wonderful dwarf angel has all the good looks of its larger cousins, making a great substitution for a large angelfish for those who don't have 200 gallons of tank space. With a deep blue body, yellow or orangish face, and blue rings around its eyes, the colors of the Cherub Angelfish are rich and vibrant similar to the Asfur, Maculosus, and even Bluegirdled Angelfish. You can get the same color combo in a "fun size" for your smaller tank.

Cherub Pygmy Angelfish are intelligent, active, and hardy as well. Look for a specimen that will take an aggressive stance, such as a raise dorsal fin, and pay rapt attention as you approach the tank. If it does dart into a cave, it should come right back out to size you up promptly. Their color should be rich, not faded, and they should be very interested in their surroundings and very difficult to catch.

This Atlantic Pygmy Angelfish spends a good amount of time hiding from predators in the wild, so plenty of hiding spaces will make them happy. These fish favor an established reef environment with plenty of nooks and crannies to graze for food. These are very pugnacious little fish, so house Pygmy Angelfish with more aggressive tank mates.

Cherub Pygmy Angelfish will spawn in captivity and they are now being raised in captivity, thus helping to preserve our ocean reefs. Though raising the larvae is quite another task. These dwarf angelfish are paired according to size, not color. All are born female, then the larger fish becomes female. To make a pair is possible by buying a larger Cherub Angel and a smaller Cherub Angel, and within a few months they hopefully will assume their roles as male and female. This spit-fire Cherubfish can be very protective of its territory, so docile fish beware.

In a reef environment, Pygmy Angelfish should avoid noxious soft corals as well as most mushrooms. A tank raised individual that is well fed may not even recognize corals as a snack. It's actually the mucous on the coral that they eat, not the flesh of the coral. Nevertheless, nipping will cause the coral to retract and eventually die from the stress.

For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see:
Marine Aquarium Basics: Guide to a Healthy Saltwater Aquarium

Geographic Distribution Centropyge argi Data provided by FishBase.org Scientific Classification Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Pomacanthidae

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Cherubfish or Pygmy Angelfish Centropyge argi , is also known as the Cherub Pygmy Angelfish, Pygmy Dwarf Angelfish, and Atlantic Pygmy Angelfish. It is from the Pomacanthidae family, and was described by Woods and Kanazawa in 1951. The genus Centropyge currently has over 33 species, with argi being one of them. They will spawn in captivity and are now being raised in captivity, thus helping to preserve our ocean reefs.

Cherubfish are found in the Western Atlantic from Bermuda to Florida (USA) to French Guiana, Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea. They prefer areas covered in rubble and feed on different algae, benthic inverts and detritus. The Cherub Pygmy Angelfish prefer to pair up, one male to several females. Being "snack size" they will dart into holes when startled, which is quite often. As adults they are found at depths of 16 to 148 feet (5 to 45 m).

• Scientific Name: Centropyge argi
• Social Grouping: Harems - A typical harem consists of one adult male, 1 to 3 mature females, and several immature individuals.
• IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - A stable population

Description

The body of the Cherub Angelfish is a blue to deep blue color. The head and chest is an orangish to yellow color which can vary in shade, depending on the location in which the fish was captured. Some specimens may only have a hint of yellow on the snout and slight hints in the chin area. There is a thin blue line encircling the eye. The outer edges of the fins are trimmed in a light blue with the exception of the pectoral fins, which are pale yellow. The Cherubfish or Pygmy Angelfish have gill covers with two opercular spines. This Angelfish can live 5 or more years.

• Maximum Size: 3.1 inches (7.87 cm) - The Cherub Pygmy Angelfish can grow up to 3.1" (8 cm) in the wild, yet in captivity they rarely grow more than 2.5" (6.5 cm).
• Lifespan: 5 years - Have been reported to live up to 5 years in captivity.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

Pygmy Angelfish or Cherubfish are easy to care for if you are careful to get a healthy specimen. When purchasing this dwarf angelfish, look for a specimen that is alert, active, and interested in its surroundings. Their color should be rich, not faded, and they should be very difficult to catch. They should not be bloated of have reddened scale areas. Be cautious of dwarf angels from the Philippines. Some collectors are known to have used improper capture techniques, such as not allowing the fish to decompress from deeper waters, as well as other mishandling techniques.

• Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy - Easy to care for if needs are met.
• Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner - These are a hardy angelfish, but are notorious for becoming aggressive with docile tankmates such as gobies, firefish, and flasher wrasses.

Foods and Feeding

Atlantic Pygmy Angelfish are omnivores, in the wild they feed on different algae, benthic inverts and detritus. This angelfish is very hardy and generally a good eater, taking all manner of offered foods and grazing on hair algae on live rock. They do well on frozen foods with marine or Spirulina algae, mysid shrimp, shaved shrimp, and some micro algae growth in the tank. Feed 3 times a day, less if natural foods are present.

• Diet Type: Omnivore
• Flake Food: Yes
• Tablet Pellet: Yes
• Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet - Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, as well as other protein sources can be offered occasionally.
• Vegetable Food: Most of Diet - May get some of their vegetable from algae growth present in tank.
• Meaty Food: Some of Diet - Offer mysid shrimp, shaved shrimp, and other high quality protein fare.
• Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Minimum 3 times a day in tanks having little natural food.

Aquarium Care

The Cherub Pygmy Angelfish is not as touchy as some of the other species of angelfish, but still needs good water. Water changes of 30% a month, or 15% every 2 weeks is optimal in keeping nitrates lower. If there are corals in the tank, then 20% every month, 10% every 2 weeks or 5% a week works great. Of course, keeping up with your water testing will tell you when your tank needs a water change.

• Water Changes: Bi-weekly - Bi-weekly for smaller tanks, larger tanks 75 gallons or more, can get away with monthly water changes.

Aquarium Setup

The tank needs to be at least 30 gallons for a single Cherubfish, and at least 75 gallons to keep a male/female pair or two females. This pygmy angel likes to have lots of rubble type areas to pick natural foods from and with several little caves in the rock work to hide in to feel secure. They are known to become aggressive to docile fish, so it is best to introduce this dwarf angel as the last inhabitant into a suitable, mature tank.

• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gal (114 L) - A minimum size of at least 30 gallons (113 l) is needed for a single individual. A male/female pair or two females can be kept if the tank is large enough, at least 75 gallons or more. Males will fight, most often to the death.
• Suitable for Nano Tank: Sometimes - May be kept singly in a large nano tank.
• Live Rock Requirement: Typical Amount - Provide rock to support splenty of algae growth and to create a rubble type bottom along with several little caves formed from the pieces.
• Substrate Type: Any
• Lighting Needs: Any - It is best kept under normal lighting, but can also be kept in sunlight conditions and in a dimly lit tank.
• Temperature: 72.0 - 82.0° F (22.2 - 27.8° C)
• Breeding Temperature: 77° F - At this temperature, hatching is 16 hours after spawning. Longer if water is cooler.
• Specific gravity: 1.018-1.023 SG
• Range ph: 8.1-8.4
• Brackish: No
• Water Movement: Moderate - Some areas of swift water movement
• Water Region: Middle - Middle to bottom

Social Behaviors

The Cherub Angelfish are very pugnacious little fish, so house them with more aggressive tank mates. The Pygmy Angelfish is more aggressive in smaller tanks, yet will pick on smaller tank mates no matter what. They will harass docile tank mates, even to death. Two Pygmy Dwarf Angelfish males will also fight to the death. They do not get along with another Centropyge angelfish unless the tank is well over 100 gallons and there are plenty of hiding places for both. Generally a good reef fish.

• Venomous: No
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive - They can become very aggressive towards docile fish, and will not tolerate other angelfish unless the aquarium is very large.
• Compatible with:
  • Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Male/female pair work or two females will together as long as the tank is large enough, at least 75 gallons or more. Males will fight, often to the death.
  • Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Threat - Once established they can become terrors to peaceful tank mates, especially in smaller tanks.
  • Semi-Aggressive: (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Monitor - Keep an eye out for aggression.
  • Aggressive: (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Safe
  • Large Semi-Aggressive: (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will be eaten by large fish that can be fit them into their mouths.
  • Large Aggressive, Predatory: (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will be eaten by large fish that can be fit them into their mouths.
  • Slow Swimmers & Eaters: (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat - Dwarf Angelfish will out compete slow eaters, possibly leading to them starving to death.
  • Anemones: Monitor - Some individuals will nip anemones.
  • Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Monitor
  • LPS corals: Monitor - Occasionally will nip.
  • SPS corals: Monitor - Some individuals have been known to nip.
  • Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Monitor
  • Leather Corals: Safe
  • Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Monitor - Some individuals have been known to nip.
  • Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Monitor
  • Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Monitor
  • Sponges, Tunicates: Safe
  • Shrimps, Lobsters: Safe
  • Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Monitor - May eat small crustaceans living within the algae on the live rock
  • Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat - Some individuals have been known to nip clam mantles.
  • Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Monitor - May eat small crustaceans living within the algae on the live rock
  • Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Safe - not aggressive

Sex: Sexual differences

All Centropyge are born female. As they grow, the larger and more dominant fish will become male and the others will remain female. If the male dies, the next in command in the hierarchy will turn to male. Putting a larger and smaller fish together is the best way to get a pair, possibly in about 2 months, give or take. Color is not an indication of sex.

Breeding / Reproduction

Dwarf angelfish are open spawners, releasing eggs and sperm simultaneously at dusk by rising into the water column and releasing the gamates at the top. A taller tank is needed as well as a proper lighting schedule to encourage spawning. You can mimic the proper dusk light cycle of your aquarium by having 1/2 the lights go out (brighter lights) then an hour later the other 1/2 (actinic) go out at a consistent time every day. The eggs hatch in just under a day. After hatching, within 2 to 3 days, they need microscopic algae for their very small mouths. This is where raising the babies becomes difficult.

• Ease of Propagation: Moderate - They will spawned in captivity and have been reared in captivity. The young will need special feeding and care to survive.

Fish Diseases

Like other saltwater angelfish, Cherub Pygmy Angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Providing a dwarf angelfish with plenty of places to hide and clean water is the best way to prevent illness. Calm fish are healthy fish. If not stressed, they will have a stronger immune system to prevent infections. Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.

Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:

1. Parasitic diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.
   • Treatment of parasites
     For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
     Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
     The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone.
     The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief, but of course
      
2. Bacterial Diseases
   As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.
   • Treatment of bacterial diseases
     Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
      
3. Fungal Diseases
   Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.
   • Treatment of fungal diseases
     Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
      
4. Physical Ailments
   Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..
   • Treatment for physical ailments
     Look for and remove bully fish.
     Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melefix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.

Availability

The Cherubfish or Cherub Pygmy Angelfish is easy to find online and in stores, and moderately expensive.

References

• Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
• Helmut Debelius and Rudie H. Kuiter, World Atlas of Marine Fishes, (in German) Hollywood Import & Export, Inc., 2006
• Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
• Scott W. Michael, Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species, T.F.H Publications inc., 1999
• Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
• Dr. Gerald R. Allen, Butterfly and Angelfishes of the World Volume 2, Aquarium Systems; 3rd edition,1985
• Dwarf Pygmy Angelfish, Fishlore.com Tropical Fish Information, Copyright 2011

Author: Carrie McBirney, David Brough CAS

• Centropyge argi : $24.99

Centropyge Argi Cherub Pygmy Angel Small Offered By: That Pet Place Price: $24.99

Lastest Comments on Pygmy Angelfish View all 3 comments on Pygmy Angelfish Add Your Comment

Jake - 2010-06-20 Getting a pygmy soon. Click For Replies (1) David Brough - 2012-01-26 Me too! I would like to get a pair so I guess my best bet would be to get a large one and a small one according to the information above. Reply

James - 2006-01-25 I have a cherub dwarf angel mixed with a variety of fish from long horn cowfish, filefish damsels and maroon clowns. I find it holds its own when it comes to feeding time etc. I have found this specimen very hardy and would highly recommend them. Reply

Benjamin - 2005-03-28 Hi, My Pygmy Angelfish is two weeks old. She is a very active swimer as well as a good algae eater. She is about 1.5in. long and very healthy. She eats algea, flakes and pellets. I also want to add that this sight is exceptonaly good. Reply

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