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Bicolor AngelfishTwo-colored Angelfish, Blue and Gold Angel, Oriole AngelfishFamily: Pomacanthidae Centropyge bicolorPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Greg RothschildLatest Reader Comment - See More I have a new bi color angel. Although he does stop now and then to pick at live rock, he continually swims back and forth across the tank. He almost seems nervous?... (more) Anonymous The flashy Bicolor Angel is a dwarf angelfish with vibrant yellows and blues!Bicolor Angelfish Contents The Bicolor Angelfish Centropyge bicolor is one of the most easily recognized fish. Its bright yellow front half contrasting with the deep royal blue on its back half, gives it a striking coloration. A number of descriptive common names are used for this dwarf angel, including Two-colored Angelfish, Black and Gold or Blue and Gold Angelfish, Pacific Rock Beauty Angelfish, and the Oriole Angelfish. Oriole comes from the medieval Latin word “oriolus” which basically means “golden". Although the Bicolor Angelfish is a very popular fish it is not necessarily a good angelfish for a reef aquarium. Out of all the dwarf angelfish the Bicolor is the least reef friendly. Getting a juvenile is your best bet, as they are ready eaters and can be more easily trained to aquarium fare. Larger specimens may tend to only feed some on algae, often preferring corals, large polyped corals, tunicates, sponges, and worms, and may nip the mantles of clams. Yet this angel makes up for its lack of coral compatibility with its brilliant coloration. It is a great addition for a "fish only with live rock" aquarium (FOWLR). This is a good sized dwarf angelfish, reaching up to 5.9 inches (15 cm). This fish is not as easy to keep as many other angelfish. In its captive history, even advanced aquarists couldn't keep the Bicolor Angel beyond an acclimation period. But today, with more net catching methods being employed in collection, this beauty is now considered much easier to keep in captive systems. A decent sized tank, at least 55-60 gallons, with algae growing on live rock is recommended. Make sure they are offered lots of hiding places and a diet which includes vegetable matter, small crustaceans, and worms. They are aggressive for a dwarf angelfish, especially in a tank under 75 gallons. Keeping with more semi-aggressive to aggressive fish would also be advisable. For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see: |
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Habitat: Distribution / Background
The Bicolor Angelfish Centropyge bicolor was described by Bloch in 1787. Their range includes most of the Pacific ocean excluding Hawaii. They are found in the Indo-Pacific from East Africa to the Soamoan and Phoenix Island then up to southern Japan. They also range from southern Japan down to New Caledonia, including The Great Barrier Reef and all though Micronesia.
There are several common names that mostly describe the various color variations that are found in this dwarf, such as Black and Gold Angelfish, Blue and Gold Angelfish, Two-colored Angelfish, and the Pacific Rock Beauty Angelfish. The other common name, Oriole Angelfish or Oriole Dwarf Angel, comes from the medieval Latin word “oriolus” which basically means “golden.” The Oriole is also the name of a bird that is black and orange or yellow.
Bicolor Angelfish range in depths between 3 to 80 feet (1- 25 m). Juveniles are seen at depths of 3 feet (1 m), while adults are generally at least 10 meters (33 ft.) deep. They are found in singly, in pairs, or in small groups inhabiting areas that have lots of hiding places, often going from one hiding place to the next. The can be found in protected seaward reef slopes, drop offs, rubble and coral areas, as well as lagoons and channels. They feed on worms, small crustaceans, benthic algae and weeds, hard coral polyps, sponges, and tunicates.
- Scientific Name: Centropyge bicolor
- Social Grouping: Harems - Harems range in size, from one male with one to 7 adult females, and may have up to 9 immature females.
- IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - Stable population.
The Bicolor Angelfish have a slightly longer oval shape than other dwarf angelfish. They are also commonly referred to as the Two-colored Angelfish because the front 1/3 of their body is yellow to gold and the back 2/3 is dark to royal blue. There's is a blue “mask” that runs over the forehead to the top of each eye. At times this fish can have a more “dusky” look to yellow in the facial area. The pectoral, pelvic and tail fins are yellow with the dorsal and anal fins being blue and coming to a point at the ends. Juveniles look similar, except there are darker bars in the blue area.
- Maximum Size: 5.9 inches (14.99 cm) - Purchase small juveniles, as they adjust easier to captivity and will eat a wider range of foods.
- Lifespan: 12 years - An average lifespan is 12 years, but they may live up to as much as 15 years. It has been reported to live up to 13 years.
The Bicolor Angelfish is moderately difficult to keep, but with proper care they could be put at the intermediate aquarist level. They are probably one of the most aggressive dwarf angelfish, so choose tank mates wisely. Obtaining a small juvenile will result in higher success since they will accept a wider variety of foods.
Two-colored Angelfish were considered difficult to keep in the past due to use of cyanide poisoning to capture them. Now netting methods are used to capture these fish, thus enabling a greater success in captivity. While the Bicolor Angelfish is not as “algae” needy as other dwarfs, they still need live rock with algae. Although they are 2” longer than other dwarfs, their tank size can stick to the same 55-60 gallons, since their adult personality will lend itself to eating more “meaty” foods as well as other varieties of flake with spirulina and sponge material.
- Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy - Do best with live rock providing lots of hiding places, and naturally growing algal foods.
- Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
Though an omnivore, the Bicolor Angelfish will eat more “meaty” foods than other dwarf angelfish. They will eat some algae, say about 30% but as they get older they will feed on any corals, worms, sponges or corals you have. It is important that you feed angelfish varieties of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. Feeding them good prepared foods with spirulina algae, along with mysis, finely shaved fresh or frozen shrimp and angelfish food that has sponge material included. There are several good commercial foods available including Formula II and Angel Formula.
- Diet Type: Omnivore
- Flake Food: Yes - With Spirulina and sponge material included.
- Tablet Pellet: Occasionally - With Spirulina and sponge material included.
- Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet - Not necessary but appreciated.
- Vegetable Food: Some of Diet - Makes up about 30% of their diet. Juveniles eat more algae than adults. Adult Bicolor Angelfish eat closer to 20% algae, so feed according to age.
- Meaty Food: Most of Diet - Makes up about 70% of their diet as adults, less when juveniles
- Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - This depends on the size of the tank. Feed them 2 to 3 times a day, less in a tank with a lot of natural algae sources. A larger tank with more algae to forage from, then feed once to twice a day.
The Bicolor Angelfish is moderately difficult to keep. Water quality and size are important. As with all angelfish, keeping pH to a 8.0 minimum is also very important. They are not as forgiving in water quality, as say a clownfish, so doing water changes to match your particular tanks inhabitants are important. If the tank is 55 to 60 gallons, a bi-weekly change of 10% to 15% would be good. If your tank is over 100 gallons, maybe every 3 weeks to a month do a 20% change, and so on.
- Water Changes: Bi-weekly - A 10% to 15% water change bi-weekly to keep water clean is suggested unless tank is over 100 gallons, then 20% every 3 weeks to a month.
The tank needs to be at least 55 gallons for this Oriole Dwarf Angelfish. A tank that is longer, rather than taller is needed due to them swimming near the bottom most of the time. Nano tanks are out, not even when they are young. If keeping a mated pair then 75 to 100 gallons would be appropriate, and over 150 for 2 fish that are unsexed. Provide water parameters of: 73-82° F, pH 8.0-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025.
Providing live rock with plenty of hiding places, especially near the bottom of the tank is helpful to keeping them happy. The live rock that should having algae growing on it before you purchase your Bicolor Angelfish. Try to have your tank up and running for at least 6 months before considering a dwarf angelfish. Add dwarf angels to the tank at the same time and as last additions.
- Minimum Tank Size: 55 gal (208 L) - 55 gallons or more is recommended. Although larger than other dwarf angels, the Bicolor does not need as much algae, thus a similar tank size to a typical dwarf is acceptable.
- Suitable for Nano Tank: No
- Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places
- Substrate Type: Any
- Lighting Needs: Any
- Temperature: 73.0 - 82.0° F (22.8 - 27.8° C) - This high temperature of 82 degrees helps to eliminate Crypt (saltwater ich).
- Breeding Temperature: 77° F - At this temperature, hatching is 16 hours after spawning. Longer if water is cooler.
- Specific gravity: 1.023-1.025 SG - Angelfish in general do not do well in the long run under 1.023.
- Range ph: 8.0-8.4 - Angelfish will deteriorate quickly under 8.0.
- Brackish: No
- Water Movement: Any - They like some areas of strong and weak movement. A weaker movement would be appreciated along the bottom for feeding.
- Water Region: Bottom - They will also inhabit mid level areas of the tank.
The Bicolor Angelfish is probably one if the most aggressive dwarf angelfish, if not the most aggressive. Add them last to any system, and if getting more than one, add two simultaneously. They will chase pretty much anything that feels threatened by them. Peaceful fish, as well as slow moving fish will not work well with them. Even some of the smaller semi-aggressive fish like anthias could be chased. Anthias wither quickly when they do not feel safe, so they hide and can then starve. Keep with larger semi-aggressive fish like larger tangs and large fish that will not be bullied, yet not too large that they would eat the Bicolor.
- Venomous: No
- Temperament: Aggressive - One of the most aggressive Centropyge angelfish.
- Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Male/Female in tanks over 75 gallons (284 l) and 2 of unknown in tanks over 100 gallons (378 l).
- Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Threat
- Semi-Aggressive (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Monitor - Will harass smaller fish like clowns and anthias.
- Aggressive (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Safe
- Large Semi-Aggressive (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Safe
- Large Aggressive, Predatory (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Monitor - Safe unless the fish is large enough to eat the Bicolor Angelfish.
- Slow Swimmers & Eaters (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat
- Anemones: Threat
- Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Threat
- LPS corals: Threat
- SPS corals: Threat
- Gorgonians, Sea Fans: Threat
- Leather Corals: Threat
- Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Threat
- Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Monitor - May pick at appendages if not well fed.
- Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Threat
- Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
- Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat
- Starfish: Monitor
- Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Threat
- Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat
- Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Threat
These fish are protogynous, the male and female can actually reverse their sexual orientation within 18 to 20 days. The only distinguishing feature to separate the male and female is that the male forms a dark line through and under the eyes during courtship.
As of yet they have not been bred in captivity. In the wild, the Bicolor Angelfish will reach sexual maturity at 2.4 to 2.7 inches (60 to 69 mm). It has been observed that all Centropyge dwarf angelfish have a similar spawning routine. Centropyge spawning typically consists of the male and female circling each other upon meeting, followed by the male making grunting noises. The male will then swim upwards off the bottom, and hover, tilting his body toward her at a 45 to 90 degree angle.
If she is ready to spawn, the female will join the male and both will soar together. When the soaring behavior is complete, this varies between dwarf angelfish species, the male will nuzzle her belly for up to 18 seconds, followed by the male flickering his pectoral fins and opening and closing his mouth. Suddenly, they are belly to belly, releasing gametes, producing fertilized eggs. These eggs are on their own and will not be protected by either parent. The pair will then rush back to the bottom with the male chasing the female for a short time, then moving onto the next receptive female.
- Ease of Breeding: Difficult - Their small mouths when larvae make them very hard to breed in captivity.
Providing a dwarf angelfish with plenty of places to hide and clean water is the best way to prevent illness. Calm fish are healthy fish. If not stressed, they will have a stronger immune system to prevent infections. Like other saltwater angelfish, dwarf angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments (wounds and injuries). To learn all about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.
The best and first defense to prevent diseases is a quarantine period before introducing a new fish. Quarantine tanks should be bare with a PVC tube where the fish can hide. Do regular water changes every day or so. Secondly, fresh water dips can also help to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray.
Dwarf angelfish diseases and treatments:
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Parasitic diseases
Dwarf angelfish are prone to parasites like Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease (Crypt), which is the most common disease. Symptoms of crypt are constant scratching and flashing, culminating with numerous white dots all over the body and fins. These dots disappear for a few days, only to return with double the number. This results in the fish suffocating from these parasites blocking the gills from providing oxygen.-
Treatment of parasites
For external parasites such as Crypt, slowly increase the temperature of your tank just at least 82°F (28°C). That will prevent the parasite from completing it’s life cycle which includes the attachment to fish.
Seachem makes products called Focus and Metronidazole. This treatment can be used in a reef aquarium since the medication is bound to the food, which even if the corals eat, will not hurt them.
The Focus (bonding agent) is mixed 5 to 1 with their Metronidazole (one part Metro to 5 parts Focus) and this is mixed this with 1 tablespoon of food and feed to the fish 3 times a day for at least a week or until symptoms are gone.
The combination of the higher temperature and food and medication combo will provide timely relief, but of course
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Treatment of parasites
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Bacterial Diseases
As with all dwarf angels, they are also vulnerable to bacterial diseases. Vibrio bacteria, which starts as an internal infection, turns into Dropsy, Popeye, Bleeding or Red Streaks on the skin. It is a very fast acting bacteria that will kill your angelfish in days. One way it typically starts is with an innocently frayed back fin. This disease will quickly spread and kill your fish within 2 days.-
Treatment of bacterial diseases
Fresh water dips are an important step to kill anything that is on their body that may spread. PH and temperature must be the same (just use baking soda to bring up the PH if you have soft water but use a test). Start with 5 minutes and up to 15 minutes if they are not showing any signs of distress. This is really only needed if you see anything on their body or if the back fin is starting to fray. They are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium. Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in it's free form.
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Treatment of bacterial diseases
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Fungal Diseases
Dwarf angelfish are also prone to Brooklynella, Hexamita, Velvet Disease and Amyloodinium.-
Treatment of fungal diseases
Only treat in 1/2 doses any medications containing cleated copper as all angelfish are sensitive to this element in its free form.
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Treatment of fungal diseases
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Physical Ailments
Physical Ailments are often the result of the environment, either water conditions or incompatible tankmates. Poor quality water conditions can lead to fish gasping, not eating, jumping out of the tank, and more. Tank mate problems can result in nipped fins and bite wounds..-
Treatment for physical ailments
Look for and remove bully fish.
Products on the market to help include stress relievers like Melefix, Wound Treat, and Bio Bandage.
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Treatment for physical ailments
The Bicolor Angelfish are usually easy to find online and in stores. They are moderately priced. They are also commonly called Two-colored Angelfish, Blue and Gold Angelfish, and Oriole Dwarf Angelfish.
- Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
- Centropyge bicolor Bicolor angelfish, Fishbase
- Centropyge bicolor, IUNC Red List, International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources
- Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
- Scott W. Michael, Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species, T.F.H Publications inc., 1999
- Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
- Bob Goemans, Centropyge bicolor, Aquarium Library, Saltcorner.com
- Roger Steene, Gerald R. Allen, Hans A. Baensch, Butterfly and Angelfishes of the World, Volume 1, John Wiley & Sons, 1980
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