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Goldflake AngelfishGold-Spangled Angelfish, Goldspotted Angelfish, Gold-Speckled AngelfishFamily: PomacanthidaeAngelfishWMA_Ap15AP.jpg) Apolemichthys xanthopunctatusPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy Hiroyuki TanakaLatest Reader Comment - See More I had never seen a Gold Spangled Angelfish in the twenty years I have been maintaining a marine tank, so when I saw one in a St. Louis marine aquarium store, I had... (more) John The Goldflake Angelfish is good looking when young, and becomes a spectacular Golden-spangled Angelfish as an adult!Goldflake Angelfish Contents The Goldflake Angelfish Apolemichthys xanthopunctatus is a sparkling beauty as an adult, and one of the hardier aquarium angelfish. The adult has a yellow body speckled with golden spots that give it the appearance of being sprinkled with glitter. This glitzy look is further dramatized with purple blue lips, a black spot on the forehead, and black fins at the rear edged in blue. As a juvenile the Goldflake Angelfish is also quite handsome. Young individuals are bright yellow with black fins at the rear as well. But the black of the dorsal fin is almost teardrop shaped and edged in yellow, and the black spot on the forehead extends like a band down through the eye. The young Goldflake Angel closely resembles a juvenile Flagfin Angelfish or Threespot Angelfish A. trimaculatu s. The Goldflake Angelfish is more of a newcomer in both the scientific community and the aquarium hobby. It was only just described by Burgess as recently as 1973 and was once very rare to the hobby. Recently it has become more available, but is quite expensive. It is known by several other common names that are also quite descriptive including Gold-spangled Angelfish, Goldspotted Angelfish, and Gold-Speckled Angelfish. The Apolemichthys genus contains only 8 species, but these are some of the hardiest of the angelfishes. Although the Goldflake Angelfish is not the hardiest of this group, it is fairly durable. It needs to be kept in a large aquarium, minimum of 100 gallons, with lots of rockwork creating caves for refuge and also a lot of open swimming area. Having live rock and/or algae growth in an established tank can help them to acclimate initially. Young adult specimens are the easiest to acclimate, usually accepting food within a couple of days, while smaller juveniles are more reluctant. Once established they will accept a variety of aquarium foods. Be sure their diet includes plenty of plant matter, prepared foods that contain spirulina, as well as sponge material and meaty foods. The Goldflake Angelfish can be kept in a community aquarium and even mixed with other angelfish if the aquarium is large enough. It is a semi-aggressive angelfish. The best tank mates are those that are also semi-aggressive, and of a different size and color. This angelfish is considered one of the safer choices for a reef aquarium as they tend not to pick on sessile invertebrates. But as with many of the large angelfish, an older adult can start to reek havoc on the reef, so be cautious.. For more Information on keeping saltwater fish see: |
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Habitat: Distribution / Background
The Goldflake Angelfish Apolemichthys xanthopunctatus was described by Burgess in 1973. This angelfish is a member of the Pomacanthidae family in the Apolemichthys genus, which currently has only 8 described species. They are found in the Central-Western Pacific Ocean between the Gilbert and Line Islands, as well as from the eastern Caroline Islands, Phoenix Islands, Christmas Island, and Line Islands. It is on the IUCN Red List as Least Concerned (LC) with a stable population. Other common names it is know by include Gold-spangled Angelfish, Goldspotted Angelfish, Gold-Speckled Angelfish, Golden Spotted Angelfish, and Golden-spangled Angelfish.
Goldflake Angelfish are found at depths from 32 to 213 feet (10 - 65 m). They inhabit deep lagoons and channels as well as outer reef slopes and drop offs. Juveniles prefer the deeper waters over 98 feet (30 m) in areas near ledges and fore-reef habitats. They feed on benthic algae and weeds in the wild, along with zoobenthos, sponges and tunicates. They are found alone, in pairs and in small groups.
- Scientific Name: Apolemichthys xanthopunctatus
- Social Grouping: Pairs - They are found alone, in pairs, and in small groups.
- IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern - They have a stable population in the wild.
The Goldflake Angelfish is brownish yellow, with bright lemon yellow spots or flakes speckling the body. The concentration of speckling can increase closer to the head area. The head is yellow with a purplish nose and mouth, as well as a black spot on the forehead above the eye area. The dorsal, anal, and tail fin are black, with some of the edges being light blue. The pectoral and pelvic fins are opaque to light clearish gray. This angelfish grows up to 10” (25 cm). Their lifespan is unknown at this time, but the average lifespan of angelfish is 10 to 15 years.
Juveniles closely resemble a young Flagfin Angelfish or Threespot Angelfish, A. trimaculatus . They are mostly bright yellow and are rounder, less elongate as the adults. The anal fin, tail fin and back section of the dorsal fin are black. Near the back of the dorsal fin, this black area seems like it is tear dropping into the body area, forming an irregular shape. This shape is trimmed in yellow near the bottom and sides, with blue at the top edge of the back of the dorsal fins. An irregular bar that runs between each eye, and rises toward the forehead.
The adults retain the black spot in the forehead area, but loose the black bar that connects to each of the eyes.
Gold-spangled Angelfish
- Maximum Size: 10.0 inches (25.40 cm)
- Lifespan: 0 years - The average lifespan of angelfish is 10 to 15 years.
The Goldflake Angelfish is moderately difficult to care for. It is an intermediate level fish since certain parameters must be met. It is best to acquire a specimen that is a sub-adult since they adapt to captivity faster, accepting a wider variety of foods fairly quickly after being added to the aquarium. Juveniles that are 1.6” (4.5 cm) or less, tend to be reluctant to feed and adults are very picky and tend to waste away. A sub adult would be from 2” to 4.5” (5 to 12 cm), and a better investment.
- Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately Difficult
- Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate
The Goldflake Angelfish is an omnivore. It does best with live rock that has plenty of algae growth. About two thirds of their diet consists of vegetable foods and about a third of sponge, tunicates and meaty foods. It is important that you feed angelfish a variety of good foods; all kinds of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. Best to feed small amounts 2 to 3 times a day, less in tanks with plenty of natural occurring algae that they can nibble on.
Feed them prepared frozen foods with spirulina, foods with sponge material and algae sheets as well. Chopped fish and shrimp, along with enriched mysis and brine shrimp should also should be provided. A good formula that can be made at home consists of mussels, shrimp, squid, and spinach. There are also several good commercial foods available including Formula II and Angel Formula.
- Diet Type: Omnivore
- Flake Food: Yes - With spirulina and sponge material
- Tablet Pellet: Occasionally - With spirulina and sponge material
- Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet
- Vegetable Food: Most of Diet - 60% to 70% of their diet is vegetable matter.
- Meaty Food: Some of Diet - 30% to 40% of their diet is proteins.
- Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - They need several feedings a day that includes vegetable matter, sponge material, and meaty foods.
The Goldflake Angelfish are durable when good water conditions and several feedings a day are provided. Typical care would be water changes of 10 - 15% every two weeks in a 100 gallon tank or 20% in a tank over 175 gallons. Using testing equipment is suggested to tell you when to do a water change. As with all angelfish, keeping the pH at 8.0 to 8.4 is ideal.
- Water Changes: Bi-weekly
They will do well in a typical reef setting with live rock and places to hide, but also make sure there is open area for the Goldflake Angelfish to swim. A mature tank of at least 100 gallons (378.5 l) minimum is needed, though 125 gallons (473 l) is best. Provide water parameters of: 74-82° F, pH 8.0-8.4, sg 1.023-1.025. Live rock that has plenty of algae crops growing on it is ideal. Form several hiding places within the rock work to will help your angelfish feel secure.
The Goldflake Angelfish need large amounts of vegetable foods to stay healthy and its best if they do not have to compete with other fish for naturally growing algae. They should also be the only angelfish in the tank unless it is over 150 gallons. If including other large angelfish in the tank, the Goldflake Angelfish should be one of the first of the larger angelfish added to the tank.
- Minimum Tank Size: 100 gal (379 L) - A tank that is 100 gallons is the absolute minimum, and 125 gallons (473 l) is best. Keep a male/female pair in tanks over 150 gallons.
- Suitable for Nano Tank: No
- Live Rock Requirement: Typical Plus Hiding Places - Hiding places are needed to help the angelfish adapt to captivity and feel secure.
- Substrate Type: Any
- Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting - Lighting is needed to provide algal crops on live rock.
- Temperature: 74.0 - 82.0° F (23.3 - 27.8° C) - 74˚F (23˚C) 82˚F (28 ˚C)
- Specific gravity: 1.023-1.025 SG
- Range ph: 8.0-8.4
- Brackish: No
- Water Movement: Any
- Water Region: All
The Goldflake Angelfish is semi-aggressive, and will go after peaceful tank mates. They will fight with their own conspecifics unless a mated pair. If adding an additional fish after this fish is established, re-arranging rock work may help. They will be picked on by more aggressive angelfish if added after them, and in tanks under 135 gallons. Otherwise, they get along with most semi-aggressive fish. Although juveniles are okay in a reef, adults will pick on soft corals and stony corals, so they are not the best reef resident.
If you want to keep them with other angelfish, the tank should be at least 150 gallons with the following guidelines:
- The tank should be mature, over 6 months.
- There should be many hiding places, several for each angelfish. Having lots of places to hide and plenty of room to swim will help the more docile angelfish avoid the “higher ups” in the tank.
- When introducing the first angelfish, they should be the most peaceful of the different genus’ such as the Goldflake Angelfish.
- Introduce the more aggressive angels last, like those in the Holacanthus group.
- You may place juveniles of two different species, and two different sizes. Make sure you do not put them with other juveniles that are of the same coloration.
- Before adding a new angelfish to a tank with an existing angelfish, feed the tank first.
- If the new fish is harassed, rearrange the rock work and turn the lights off for the rest of the day.
- Remove any angelfish that are constantly fighting and which is resulting in physical injury to each other.
These guidelines can also help in general, when to adding other types of fish as well.
- Venomous: No
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Same species - conspecifics: Sometimes - Only in a large tank over 150 gallons, and add at the same time.
- Peaceful fish (gobies, dartfish, assessors, fairy wrasses): Monitor - Can be aggressive towards peaceful tank mates.
- Semi-Aggressive (anthias, clownfish, dwarf angels): Safe
- Aggressive (dottybacks, 6-line & 8-line wrasse, damselfish): Safe
- Large Semi-Aggressive (tangs, large angels, large wrasses): Safe
- Large Aggressive, Predatory (lionfish, groupers, soapfish): Monitor - As long as your angelfish cannot fit into their mouths.
- Slow Swimmers & Eaters (seahorses, pipefish, mandarins): Threat - Will out compete slow eaters for food.
- Anemones: Threat
- Mushroom Anemones - Corallimorphs: Threat
- LPS corals: Threat
- SPS corals: Monitor - A well fed angelfish may leave small polyp stony corals alone, although there is no guarantee.
- Leather Corals: Threat
- Soft Corals (xenias, tree corals): Threat
- Star Polyps, Organ Pipe Coral: Threat
- Zoanthids - Button Polyps, Sea Mats: Threat
- Sponges, Tunicates: Threat
- Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat
- Starfish: Threat
- Feather Dusters, Bristle Worms, Flatworms: Threat
- Clams, Scallops, Oysters: Threat
- Copepods, Amphipods, Mini Brittle Stars: Safe - Will eat small amounts living within the algae, but this is not enough to impact the copepod population, and it is a good source of meat for them.
- Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: May be aggressive
The Goldflake Angelfish do not display sexual dimorphism. The sex is unknown, though males may be larger.
The Goldflake Angelfish may spawn in a larger public aquarium. Successful breeding most likely can only be accomplished in a very large display aquarium. Most home aquarists will not have a tank large enough to encourage spawning with this angelfish.
Angelfish generally are broadcast spawners, releasing eggs and sperm simultaneously at dusk. They dance then rise into the water column and release their eggs and sperm near the top of the water. Spawning starts before sunset with females extending all her fins as she swims next to the male. The male will go under the female and nuzzle her belly, then darts down about 2.3” to 3.9” (6 to 10 cm). The female then turns to her side and both release a white cloud of gametes containing sperm and eggs. Both males and females may mate with several others on the same evening.
- Ease of Breeding: Unknown
Providing an angelfish with clean water, a proper decor with places to hide, and regular feeding is the best way to prevent illness. Calm angelfish are healthy fish. If not stressed, they will have a stronger immune system to prevent infections.
Goldflake Angelfish can suffer any disease that captive saltwater environments have to offer. Saltwater Ich or Crypt (Cryptocaryon irritans) and monogenetic flukes are the most common parasitic infections angelfish are prone to contracting. Another common affliction is the fungal infection coral fish disease, known as “velvet” (Amyloodinium ocellatum). All three of these illnesses can be treated with a hypo-salinity environment (1.010 to 1.012 specific gravity) for 14 days or longer. After 14 days, or once there are no parasites seen, slowly bring the salinity back up over several days. Do not rush this, or the angelfish can die from the stress.
A viral infection, Lymphocystis, looks like small cauliflower-shaped nodules on the fins and mouth. These nodules are not harmful and come and go. The only time action may be needed is if they were on the mouth area of the fish, preventing it from eating for a prolonged period of time. It's best to do water changes to help the fish’s natural immune system kick in.
To avoid a condition called nutritional blindness in angelfish, which can occur around 6 to 8 months after taken into captivity, feed green leafy foods that have Vitamin A, as well as making sure there is plenty of natural occurring algae in the tank.
Fish problems can be broken into one of (or a combination of) these types: parasites, bacterial disease, fungal disease, or physical ailments caused from deficiencies in diet as well as wounds and injuries. To learn more about fish problems and find specific answers, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.
Goldflake Angelfish are relatively easy to obtain, especially during the winter months, and they are expensive.
- Animal-World References: Marine and Reef
- Apolemichthys xanthopunctatus Goldspotted angelfish, Fishbase
- Apolemichthys xanthopunctatus, IUNC Red List, International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources
- Scott W. Michael, Reef Aquarium Fishes: 500+ Essential-to-Know Species, Microcosm Ltd, 2006
- Scott W. Michael, Angelfishes & Butterflyfishes: Reef Fishes Series , Microcosm Ltd, 2004
- Mark Allen, Roger Steene and Gerald R. Allen, A Guide to Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes , Odyssey Publishing, 1998
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