Fish & Chips

A Monthly Marine Newsletter

November 1998 Issue

 

From Us

Article by Elizabeth M. Lukan 11/10/98

 

Welcome to the first issue of the Fish & Chips Monthly Newsletter.

My husband, Daniel, and I plan for this newsletter to cover subjects of interest to all saltwater hobbyists. Although our particular interest is in the keeping of reef tanks, we will try our best to provide articles for both reef and fish only tank keepers.  We don't consider ourselves experts in the marine hobby.  Far from it, but we aren't beginners either.  We are willing to do the research and write up our findings, and try our best to provide a quality newsletter.

This newsletter is provided free and is currently only available through email. We are designing a web page, but we're anxious to get started with the newsletter.  It is only available in HTML as we want to include photos, graphics, and so on.  You can subscribe by sending a blank email to FishNChips-subscribe@egroups.com (address updated 4/14/00). Your email address will never be sold or given to anyone or posted anywhere. This is our promise to you.

Any comments or suggestions should be directed via email to fishnchips@mail.com (address updated 4/14/00).

We hope to offer some of the following articles on a regular basis:

- FROM US will show up when we've got something to say about the administration of the newsletter, and later on, the web page.  Hopefully, that won't be too often!

- CAUGHT IN THE NET will provide information on what's out on the web of interest to marine hobbyists.  These articles will include, but are not limited to, web page/site reviews.

- CHEMISTRY 101 will go into a bit of detail about things like phosphates, nitrates, and so on.

- CRITTER CORNER will cover one particular creature and it’s feeding, behavior, pricing, etc.

- WHAT THE...? will give short definitions of things found in the newsletter articles.

I can’t promise each of these articles each month as I do all the writing myself. This is a hobby for us and does take a good deal of time, and we want to offer a quality newsletter.

Hopefully, we will be a success and grow and then we’ll be able to offer even more


 

Critter Corner  - Kole/Yellow Eye Tang

Article by Elizabeth M. Lukan 10/26/98

 

Scientific Name:

Ctenochaetus strigosis.

Similar to fellow genus member the Chevron Tang (Ctenochaetus hawaianensis).

 

Home Aquaria:

Fish Only with hiding places and reef tanks. Recommended for 55 gallon tank or larger. They can grow to 7 inches. This fish will swim all over the aquarium (top, middle, bottom). Friendly to inverts and other fish, even members of it’s own species. Koles are usually kept singly. Some report they can be kept in pairs, but I rarely hear of anyone having more than one in a tank.

 

Foods & Feeding:

Ctenochaetus tangs are called "bristletoothed", "bristlemouths", or "combtoothed" because of their teeth and mouth shape and their grazing of the rocks, glass, and substrate. They actually scrub or polish the live rock while grazing. They will graze continuously.

 

Majority of hobbyists find Koles to be algae eaters, but some hobbyists have noted behavior that may suggest they are detritivores and only grazing through the algae looking for detritus.

 

They eat different types of algae than the Zebrasoma Tangs (Yellow, etc.). Many owners will keep a Ctenochaetus and Zebrasoma in the same tank as they will combat different algaes and will really do an effective job of keeping a tank clean. Owners have reported their koles eating the following: cyanobacteria (red slime), diatoms (dust like coating on tank), brown algae, and green algae.

Note: Koles are not very adept at eating hair algae, especially the long strands, due mostly to the shape of their mouth. Although some hobbyists have reported success combating hair algae with these fish, others have stated that the Kole just ignored it, or only ate it when it was very short.

Prepared Foods that can be offered to your Kole:

- frozen veggie foods such as Ocean Nutrition I and II

- nori (dried seaweed/sushi wrap/unseasoned only)

- Ocean Nutrition Seaweed Selects

- flakes, spirulina, fresh and frozen brine shrimp

Note: Once they are used to these, they will accept them readily, although some owners report never being successful with dry foods like flakes. Seaweed type foods can be offered in a suction cup clip or rubber banded onto a piece of live rock (use the same rock in the same place all the time).

  Hobbyist Suggestion:  Warren Heideman (wheidema@facstaff.wisc.edu) recently made a great suggestion in the rec.aquaria.marine.reefs newsgroup that will help keep your hands out of the tank while feeding your tangs and other veggie eaters their seaweed.  You know that piece of rock you rubberband the seaweed to?  Try tying the rubberband you use to wrap the seaweed onto the rock with a piece of fishing line.  Weigh down the other end of the line with something to keep it from being pulled into the tank.  This'll make it so much easier to get the rock in and out of the water.  He also recommends replacing the rubberbands every 2-3 months.  Thanks for the great suggestion Warren, and giving me the ok to quote it!

Some owners also supplement their offerings with vitamins (for example: Vita Chem or Selcon).

 

Some owners also feed romaine lettuce, spinach, and broccoli. These should never be the only offering as they are not marine in nature and will not provide the tang with all it needs and may lead to Head and Lateral Line Erosion (hole-in-head disease) and other diseases, general poor health, and a shortened lifespan. I strongly believe that marine animals should be fed marine foods and I would not mention this at all if not for the fact that these foods are being fed by so many hobbyists and fish stores.

 

As with all your tank occupants, a variety of foods should be offered. What one food lacks another may provide.

 

Behavior:

When first added to the tank, Koles tend to be very timid, running for the cover of the rocks whenever you near the tank. They will adapt and come out in the open soon. Owners report this happening in as little as one week to as long as one month.

 

It’s been reported that they are a bit fragile, high strung, and very sensitive to water quality. The Chevron is reportedly the hardier fish in captivity, but much more expensive than the Kole. These fish will be the first to develop disease, especially when stressed. Being sensitive to disease (cryptocaryon/marine ick in particular), it is a good idea to have cleaner shrimp in the tank if the Kole is in a reef tank. Cleaner shrimp will remove many parasites before a severe outbreak can occur. A fish only tank could be dosed with the appropriate medicine.

 

Cost:

Store: $30 and under. This is in Queens, New York.

Online: From $14 for a small Kole to $39 for a large Kole. Three online sites were checked to obtain these prices.

This fish is usually readily available through local fish stores or online services.

 


 

What the... ?

Article by Elizabeth M. Lukan 10/24/98

CRYPTOCARYON - Cryptocaryon irritans is a parasitic infection where white spots appear on the body and fins. Fish will scratch themselves against rocks and breathing may become rapid if gills are affected. Treatment can be done by copper or other anti-parasite remedies, but this is incompatible with inverts. Cleaner shrimps and wrasses will remove the parasites, but may not keep up with a major infestation. Cryptocaryon is often referred to as the marine equivalent of the freshwater white spot disease, Ichthyophthirius, or Ick.

CYANOBACTERIA - Cyanobacteria is commonly referred to as red slime algae by hobbyists although it is not really an algae.  Poor water quality with excessive nutrients are the usual causes.  To combat, do frequent water changes, siphon out detritus, and use a good protein skimmer.

DETRITIVORES - Animals that eat detritus. Common detritivores are urchins, stars, hermits, etc.

DETRITUS - Piles of organic compounds that accumulate in the aquarium. Commonly will contain fish wastes, fragments of rock, leftover food, among other things. Usually detritus will accumulate in low water flow areas, sumps, etc.

DIATOM - A diatom is any of a class of microscopic one-celled algae having walls of silica consisting of two interlocking valves.

GENUS - In the taxonomy classification, the genus is the category ranking below a family and above a species.

HEAD AND LATERAL LINE EROSION - Also known as hole-in-head disease and lateral line disease. A fish with this condition will develop holes in it’s head and sometimes along it’s lateral line. The main cause is nutritional deficiency, especially vitamin C. Stress and poor water quality also play a role. Untreated cases will cause disfiguring or death. To combat and cure, ensure good water quality and provide vitamin enriched foods, especially vitamin C.

INVERTEBRATE - Commonly called inverts by many in the hobby. Invertebrates are animals without backbones like anemones, corals, shrimps, snails, and crabs.

LATERAL LINE - The lateral line is a line of perforated scales along the flanks of a fish which lead to a pressure-sensitive nervous system. This enables the fish to detect vibrations in the surrounding water caused by other fish and their own reflected vibrations against obstacles.

TAXONOMY - The classification of organisms in an ordered system that indicates natural relationships.


 

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